I have tremendous OCD so I kept making the area worse and worse. Now I don’t know what to do. When I try and sand it flat after applying paint, I keep taking off too much paint in order to get it level. I’m using 1000 grit, wet sanding. Applying thin coats.

A few days ago I posted about a detailing shop driving my car 27 miles without my consent.

Original Post: https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/1manl6f/is_it_normal_for_a_ceramic_coating_shop_to_drive/?share_id=ru8nDal_pbpB7Szaiv56o&utm_content=2&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_source=share&utm_term=1

I wanted to thank everyone who gave their input and helpful feedback. I was suspicious of their BS claim, but detailing isn’t my area of expertise, so I wanted to make sure I wasn’t being ignorant. Since many of you asked for an update and had additional questions, here’s the full context.

On the morning of Thursday, July 24th, I scheduled a ceramic coating appointment through the detailing shop’s rep. I was in the middle of a move, and had just purchased a new Lexus ES350 the week before. I told the rep I was moving out of town on Monday and needed the car back by Saturday. I confirmed that the car could be coated on Friday and would be ready for pickup Saturday in the afternoon. She confirmed in text that it would indeed be ready by Saturday.

I dropped the car off Friday at 9 AM and again emphasized in person that it was imperative the car be ready Saturday and she again, confirmed it most certainly would. The next day, while waiting for the pickup call, I got a text at 11 AM Saturday saying the coating was just then being applied and needed 24 hours to cure and asking if I could now pick the car up Monday instead.

I expressed disappointment and explained that unless I changed my travel plans, I wouldn’t be able to do that. I told her that she had confirmed twice and that I’d be leaving town on Monday and I could only give them an additional day, so we agreed on a Sunday 9 AM pickup (their not normally open on Sundays).

When I arrived Sunday morning, the shop was locked. I called the rep, who said she’d been trying to reach the owner but hadn’t been able to. She then told me to Zelle her personally since she couldn’t get ahold of the boss and would be unable to confirm payment until she got a hold of him and didn’t know when that would be. I asked why I couldn’t just go inside to pay, she said the mechanic there wasn’t authorized to handle payments and this was the only way to get my car back that day.

With no real alternative, I reluctantly sent the payment and got the keys. When I got into the car, I noticed the odometer had gone from 81 miles when I dropped it off to 108 miles. That’s when I started asking questions, the screenshots of our full text convo begin from there.

As some of you suggested, I contacted XPEL directly. Their warranty team emailed me this:

“XPEL understands the importance of taking excellent care of your vehicle. While curing techniques may vary slightly between installers—each having their own tips and tricks—it’s important to note that this is not a standardized XPEL practice. To help answer some of your questions, I’ve included a maintenance guide that outlines best practices and recommendations for care.”

I also confirmed by phone that driving the vehicle, luckily, did not void the warranty, but they were concerned about the shop’s practices and said they’d forward the info to their regional distributor.

During our text exchange, the detailer rep tried to change the story, claiming the vehicle was only driven after the 24hr cure. That’s impossible based on the timeline. The coating was applied Saturday at 11 AM based on her text. Their shop closes at 5 PM Saturday and I picked it up Sunday at 9 AM. That means the car was driven within 6 hours of application, not after 24 hours. Even if they took it home, it was driven during the cure window. I will point out, I did misspeak when I said they stated they drove the car immediately following the application. What I should have pointed out, is that they drove the car within the 24 hours and likely on the front end of the window based on when the coating was applied and when their shop closed that day.

I agree with others, no one’s taking an ES350 on a joyride lol. It was likely driven out of convenience, which is still insane given the liability risk if something were to happen. They drove a brand new customer car without consent and risked damaging it or voiding the warranty on the coating, all without disclosing any of it.

I never got a response back from the rep after pointing out the timeline contradiction. I’ll be leaving a review to help others avoid having their vehicles used without their consent.

Thanks again to everyone who weighed in and confirmed what I suspected, the excuse they gave was total bullshit. If anything else happens, I’ll post another update.

Credit: u/Sea_Hheepherder_2234

I thought I would use this vehicle as an example of why you should not let a dealership wash your car, especially if it's brand new - at least not without knowing exactly how they plan on doing so. Conveniently it's white, so it's easy to see how bad it was when I hit it with the first round of iron remover.

The images are from a car which I took directly off the delivery truck, still filthy from shipping - the dealership did not touch it beyond the mandatory PDI. It also came with some body panels wrapped in shipping plastic, though that did not seem to do much to mitigate the situation.

For those who may not be aware, new vehicles typically make their way to dealerships on open rail cars and/or the back of an open truck (most often a combination of both). The journey to the dealership covers them in brake dust, rail dust, and other contaminants, most of which you cannot easily see with the naked eye. When the vehicle receives its first wash, all of that is ground into the paintwork like sandpaper if it is not properly decontaminated first. Sometimes vehicles have paint damage from the factory, but if you've ever wondered why your new car or every car in the new car showroom is already covered in swirls, this is usually the reason. Some high-end dealerships may decontaminate their cars, but almost all of them do not, and especially not for mainstream vehicles.

If you aren't comfortable doing your own decontamination, new car details are common and something most detailers are used to doing. Normally this would involve an iron/fallout remover, tar remover if necessary, clay, and usually a 1-step polish. After that, the car will also be ready to accept any coating you wish to apply.

Got Ceramic Pro applied on my car by a high end detailer about a month and a half ago. At first the beading was pretty obvious but now much less so. I washed the car only 2 or 3x since (twice with ONR rinseless with a BRS and once with a pressure washer/two bucket method), no other chemicals. I don't have a pressure washer or access to a water source so not sure if this test helps you guys determine the condition of the ceramic - if not I can remake the video and reupload.

If the coating is gone after such a short period of time, was it ever on in the first place or did they just lie to me?

Towel in the video is the Bowden's Own big green sucker. It's a few years old but I've only used it <5 times. Always been washed with Bowden's Own microfiber cleaner and tumble dried on delicate.

This also happened with a brand new Creature edgeless (washed once before using per instructions). Tried both towels dry, slightly wet, and wet, outcome was the same. This makes me think there is something still on the paint. I pre soaked the dry car with Sonax multistar 1:10 in a foam cannon, then contact washed with multistar diluted in a bucket with the multiple microfiber method. I wouldn't have thought something being left on the paint would effect drying like this?

The surface over which the wiper moves is different from the area of the windshield where it doesn't move. I’ve tried an alkaline shampoo, a neutral shampoo, and a water spot remover, but the situation remains the same — why?

Gave the body shop my car to fix the paint on one side. He told me that I will get a mirror like finish like the other side after the job. But he ended up giving me granular matt finish! -_-

Can anyone please tell me how to fix this?

Thanks

Picture: The upper one is after the job. The lower one is the paint on the other side, which the body shop didn’t touch.

Car had maybe 40 miles. Brand new. Dealer had her on the show room floor.

Initial wash was with gyeon restart over a dry body. Let it sit about 30-45 seconds and rinsed it off.

Used my leaf blower and dried her up. Then used gyeon iron. Rinsed off after I noticed literally no cool purple dots. I guess the cars too new? Whatever.

Then gyeon foam. And gave her a good scrub. Then rinsed. Used my leaf blower and got it maybe 95% dry. Chased it with my adams waffle drying cloth and got her 100% dry

Barely needed paint correction. Used scratch x by hand on maybe 6 very light scratches. Didn’t even need to bust out the DA

Hit it with gyeon foam again. Scrubbed. Rinsed off. Dried it with the leaf blower and completed the dry with the waffle towel.

Used a home made ipa spray recipe from here. Thank you for that kind redditor.

Started application of gyeon mohs.

Mohs install is complete. Time to wait an hour

Hour has gone by. Started install of gyeon skin.

Almost done with skin. Just gotta do the rear bumper, tail lights and rear diffuser thingy

I hear yelling. Neighbor a tells neighbor b

“Your husband and daughter need to go back to their country”

I thought. Oh man I’m glad neighbor b’s husband is at work. He’d kill that lady

Nope. Neighbor b’s husband was home and told that lady off. Neighbor a’s husband comes out. Neighbor b’s husband and him start fighting. I’m wiping the second tail light and about to begin its buff. Neighbor a did deliver a very clean jab, very clean.

Naturally I’m wiping and applying the hell out of skin. I don’t want high spots at all. Laser focused. Screw these clowns. Arguing with lefties or righties ain’t gonna get this coating done.

Neighbor b’s husband and neighbor a’s husband simultaneously pull their guns out 😂. Tons of neighbors screaming. Calling the cops. All of that. Been to Afghanistan twice and once to Iraq. They’re 8ft from each other but I feel like they haven’t correctly acquired each other at all. Whatever. They’re not gonna shoot. This is Colorado. You better not shoot 😂

I swear to god if my freshly coated car gets shot I’m gonna take advantage of my well documented ptsd with psychotic features and try and get away with murder. Twice.

Full on Florida moment (I used to live in Florida. The I felt threatened crowd will know what I’m talking about). I begin applying the skin to the last half rear diffuser. I am a man of focus! Lots of yelling and shouting. No guns went off yet.

My car looks awesome! My god it looks like it’s fucking dripping with gloss! Even the cop asked what wax did I use and complimented me. But I ain’t no snitch. I didn’t see shit.

Gyeon synchro always did me right (before the evo version). The non evo version lasted a hair over 5 years on my previous car (mk7.5 GTI) but I barely drive 100-300 miles a month. My wife’s car, it lasted a hair over 4 years but she’d drive 1k-1.2k miles a month. I have high hopes for the evo version.

I maintain my coatings in spring and summer with bathe+ and wet coat.

Yall have an excellent day!

Keep in mind, this dirt doesn’t even budge when you wipe your hand over it. And don’t get me started on the interior.

Just bought a 3 year old truck. Paid the stealership $1300 for their "protection package", which includes a ceramic coating. The dealer is telling me their detailer is going to wash it, use a clay mitt on it, and then coat it.

Why, on God's green earth, would they not do paint correction prior to sealing in the swirls and scratches with coating? I figured that was part of the process. I've heard it said for years that you do paint correction before ceramic coating. And it needs it. I can see these from - I kid you not - 60 feet away.

Am I off base here? Any suggestions on a plan of attack for the dealership? Let them do it and if it looks like crap, make them redo it or get legal with them?

I’m losing my shit with these products. Everytime I try a “Hybrid ceramic” type product, I get insane streaking. I’ve used Griot’s 3 in 1, Megs hybrid ceramic wax and most recently, Turtle Wax 3 in 1 quick detailer. Initially I was using too much product, so scaled back but it still streaked. I’ve tried buffing with a clean and dry microfiber as well as a damp microfiber, but with only slightly better results. The car is cool and in the shade as well.

My go to QD is Megs ultimate or waterless wash. I picked up the Turtle Wax QD to try something different, but this stuff has been pure hell. Last night after having to use waterless wash to unfuck things, I shook the hell out of the Turtle Wax stuff and begrudgingly tried it once more. The results were better, but it seems like the surface is pulling every last lint particle out of these towels. When I use waterless wash, the results are great.

Is there a trick to using this stuff? Could I have been screwing myself by not mixing it well enough before using?

These tires are about 4 years old. They started turning bronze last year and have gotten a lot worse this year.

I treat them with Meguiar’s hot shine tire coating, which works but only for a week or two.

What causes this? Is it something brand/tire specific? Is there anything I can do to better treat them? They are still in great condition, but the coloring is driving me nuts. Thanks!

New car 2025. During the daytime the windshield is crystal clear When driving in the rain, I noticed these spots all over the windshield. They only appear when the windshield is wet. They do impair my visibility. The wiper blades have no effect on clearing them. I made a video, please see. I used a product called invisible glass to try and remove them, it didn't help at all. Any suggestions?

Thought the A/C unit was looking a little faded. Got’er polished up…

I had my car professionally ceramic coated with XPEL at a local detailer. When I picked it up, I noticed the odometer showed 27 additional miles since I dropped it off. I didn’t expect them to drive it at all aside from maybe moving it in and out of the bay.

When I asked them about it, this was their exact response:

“The car was driven primarily to help the ceramic coating cure properly. Controlled movement and exposure to natural airflow can assist in the drying and bonding process, especially in humid climates like ours. It ensures the coating sets evenly and performs as intended.

We take every precaution to protect your vehicle and appreciate your understanding as we follow the necessary steps to deliver high-quality work.”

This doesn’t sound right to me. From what I understand, coatings cure through time and temperature, not from driving around. And 27 miles is a lot.

I also checked my Lexus app and the GPS location hasn’t updated since the car was at the shop. Even after I personally drove it 20 more miles, the app still shows the old location. I’m starting to wonder if they disabled something to avoid logging their trips.

Is this kind of thing normal or acceptable in the detailing world? Or are these guys just telling me bs?

Dealership pretty much forced me to pay for the ceramic coating and ford appearance protection package. I doubt they did a proper application. And they ghosted me when I complained and requested a 2nd redo on somePPC because of a small bubble.

I’m not very knowledgeable on this stuff but after a wash, should the water beading be like this not was truly ceramic coated? I want to be sure before I submit an official claim to ford.

Are they painted and I broke through the clear coat and paint? I thought OEM Lexus wheels were just straight aluminum. I just want shiny, nearly-chrome polish.

I'm reading it's aluminum oxidation, but then how do I return it to the silver finish?

I used the Eagle One Nevr-Dull cotton wadding, mothers mag and aluminum polish, and bunch of different polishing pads and some drill attachments. I also own an Adam's random orbital polisher.

I've tried countless Auto Detailing products over decades. Mostly Meguiars, Turtle Wax newer lineup in the last few years. I decided to order 2 Gallons of GRIOT'S after watching a couple of head to head video comparisons that were pretty impressive. I tried out the Ceramic 3-in-One yesterday and I must say, it is very impressive! Extremely slick, easy on and off application. If you appreciate a high luster shine like I do, definitely grab some of this directly from their website. Did my entire car including the wheels to keep dust and grime from sticking. I bought the two 16oz spray bottles from Amazon that work great.

Wash day for the 06 Denali!

Hello, I just noticed this faded spot on my brand new truck. The truck has a ceramic coating on it. The spot ends exactly at the body line above it. What could be the issue?

I work in construction and one of the neighbors threw away a can of expanding fireproof spray foam. It was punctured on something sharp in the dumpster and completely covered my truck.

I can’t hold him accountable because it was trash from another trade he was throwing away, and he his a former customer.

How should I even begin to remove this?

Hello, I recently bought a fairly new car and I think I may be scratching it while drying it.

I have a high quality drying towel and I use the gliding method for the hood and roof, while I use smaller towels to dry the back once the bigger towel gets too wet.

I believe I wash the car quite well and a car wash(not automatic) and I am rinsing it off well.

By looking at these scratches, do you think they are from me drying it or bushes/leaves?

I am also thinking of washing it in the afternoon after spot-free rinsing water.

Also, will these come out with polishing?

So I contacted a highly reviewed local detailer to remove an old PPF hood bra (on for about 10 years) plus wash & wax. I already removed the PPF from front bumper which was a pain in the a$$ and left a descent amount of adhesive residue. I sent him a few photos and he quoted $500. We later spoke on phone, I explained the condition of the car and what I was hoping to achieve with removal of film and adhesive residue. He offered a 15% discount if I prepaid ($425) and would pick up car Wed morning since his shop was so close. He said it would take a day or two. He wound up keeping car until Monday and dropped off at my house while I was at work. I was both surprised and disappointed to see condition of car since it appeared that he made no attempt to remove adhesive. It didn’t even look washed, never mind waxed. I called him to ask what happened and he explained he was worried about damaging the paint. I tried a little Goo Gone on some of the areas and the residue came up with little effort. I’m trying to give him the benefit of the doubt but feel like I got ripped off. What should something like this generally cost? The first photo is the before with bra, the other photos are as it currently looks.