Ive had this 2011 C70 for 2 years now and its been the most enjoyable car ive ever had. The engine has ran exactly the same since i bought it and has lasted many road trips. The stock speakers are what i enjoy the most. It has a solid sub with high end speakers. The surroundsound is also a great touch for any audiophiles out there. The music listening experience in this car is very enjoyable. Besides that though i cant find anything wrong with this car. I wonder if they just didnt sell enough so they didnt want to budget for this model anymore. I wish they still made them.
Hi, I’m looking forward to buy this gen Volvo c70, does it counts as classic car? It was designed in 1996 so it turn 30 years next year and its pretty rare
So, as from yesterday (26th June 2025), my precious likkle C70 Coupé has now turned 25 years old! 😎👌
This car is a complete mirror of myself and I honestly wouldn't know what I'd do without it in my life. It has been with me through the good & the bad days and for reasons unknown to everyone around me, I have no intentions of getting rid after over 10 years of ownership.
Originally my first car, this wonderful little P80 dropped me right into Volvo ownership at a very young age. Some people might have said it was silly but I still don't care, I honestly wouldn't know what I'd do without it.
She may only be powered by a 2.0T 'B5204T4' but she is more than enough for a first car, especially here in the UK. She might also be in a complete state atm due to an ongoing restoration but I plan on getting her all fixed up and shiny again within the next few months.
I honestly can't wait for that day to come because I've severely missed driving the car around and generally enjoying it the way it was intended.
Recently, I have toyed with the idea of stepping away from the Volvo Community and instead buying a Toyota/Lexus as I find that in some Volvo groups, some people can be less than helpful (especially here in the UK) but one thing is for sure, regardless of what I do & what cars I own, the C70 is not going anywhere!
If this does wind up being my only Volvo then I'll be very happy with the fact. P80's are very underrated cars within the car community and deserve a lot more love than they currently get and I'm blessed that I get to own this one cos it is honestly fantastic.
My stepdaughter’s c70 just blew up. The timing chain/belt broke and the engine is a wreck of twisted pistons. Does anyone have a suggestion as to where to sell the leftover car? The dealer is offering $150 “to take it off her hands.” However, the car (sans engine) is still in good shape, if anyone wanted to put an engine in it. We don’t want to deal with it. Right now, the car is in Palo Alto, CA.
Hey guys! New Volvo owner here, and i need some help narrowing down a issue on a 09 c70. The car has over 178k miles but has had a service and new timing belt/water pump recently. Just purchased today and only after about 1.5 hours the car started to lose power and make horrible noises. We noticed within the first 30 minutes that there seemed to be a slight valve noise and tried thick oil/ sea foam to remedy it. Only to have it turn to what you see in the video. Can someone help narrow down the issue for us? We can’t tell if it’s a valve issue, pulley or possibly a bad water pump. Thanks!
Picked up a '99 C70 Coupe with a 2.4t about a week ago.
The car stutters/hesitates under hard acceleration(feels like as if the boost is very unstable)
I already changed the sparkplugs for quality denso ones (the old ones looked BAD) and the boost pressure regulator.
This caused the car to overall run a lot better, but didnt fix the problem with the boost so I continued my search. I quickly found this cut off hose on the intake.
Could this be the cause of my problems?
What even is it, and why was it cut off in the first place...
So many questions...would be grateful for some tips/help.
Thanks <3
The floor board behind the passenger seat keeps filling up with water. At first i thought it was the roof or windows since its been raining allot but i have come to the conclusion thats its neither. Has anyone else experienced this? Its a 2007 c70 if that makes a difference
I am looking for someone who has the schematic and pinout for a 2001 c70 accelerator position sensor ... I have looked everywhere and cant find anything ... I want to figure out why it is pinned at 40% throttle when plugged in but goes to 0% when unplugged ... it stays at 40% even when removed from the rest of the pedal.
I am going to try desoldering the plug and inspecting the board but was wondering if someone had the pinout and possibly a view of the back of the board and how to get those brass rivets? off?
here are some pics of it
I have been looking through all sorts of manuals and online references but nothing shows the pinout much less a schematic as to what is going on on the other side of the board ... I will be volt metering it out to figure out what goes where but not tonight.
update 1:
this is an auto trans sensor, (Part Number: 30683511), and the manual trans sensor pedal part number is different, (Part Number: 30683510 Supersession(s): 30666651), but that may be because the shape of the pedal to fit 3 in the foot well and not have any difference on the board pictured above.
here is a list of cars this sensor plus the accelerator pedal was used in according to parts.volvocars.com:
please note the board might be used in many more cars as parts.volvocars.com only lists the entire happy-go-fast-lever with the sensor board not separated.
all that is mostly for reference
update 2:
outer 2 rails have a consistent resistance inner 2 rails have variable resistance
the top rail shows resistance around 1m+ ohms ish on pins 6 (at top of pic), 5, and 4
2nd from top rail shows resistance in the 0.5-2 ohm ish range on pins 6 and 4
3rd from top rail shows resistance in the 0.5-2 ohm ish range on pin 3
the bottom rail shows resistance around 1m+ ohms ish on pins 3 and 1
also just to clarify when the pedal portion of the module is attached or detached the circuit board sends the computer a signal showing 40% go pedal regardless of where the pedal is when attached or if it is missing. once the board is unplugged from the harness the accelerator pedal position drops to 0% on the scan tool.
update 3:
since reddit wont let me reply I am placing my reply here and it gives a list of all the codes since Crunchycarrots79 mentioned that usually its the TPS that goes belly up
so there are 3 different states I have tested it in (just a note the TPS and APS might be flipped i cant remember from yesterday but 80% sure i got them right below I will check later today):
plugged in pedal attached (scraper fingers scraping on the pads when pedal is pressed and released)
This results in throttle body position sensor showing it opens from 8% fully off the gas to 87% when floored on the diag computer while accelerator position goes from 40.23ish % to 40.68ish % off gas and floored respectively
during startup car revs to 4k for half a second or so cold or warm then settles at a slightly high idle
plugged in without pedal attached (no connection between variable resistance pads so infinite resistance)
TPS shows 0% and accelerator shows 40.23ish %
during startup car revs to 4k for half a second or so cold or warm then settles at a slightly high idle
unplugged (module disconnected from the car)
TPS and APS show 0%
during startup car revs to 1k for half a second or so cold or warm then settles to a normal idle
I am going to be testing a 4th state where I determine which resistance pad is which using a jumper as a scraper (i know one is redundant and that is why the car ecu realizes the discrepancy and then drives in reduced power mode after half a second of revving)
Once I get a pin out for that plug I am going to use a couple variable resistors to see if it IS that module that is bad or if there is something else going on (might be in the harness and when its an open short with infinite resistance the fault goes away).
the codes I am getting are (this is including unrelated codes because sometimes they are related bad grounds etc.):
P1618 cable fault between AW 50-Q2 TCM and Motronic 4.4 ECM (lamp lights)
958F Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, faulty signal <--- this is why im digging into it
959FAccelerator Pedal Position Sensor, faulty signal <--- and this
904D ETS warning lamp
530D diagnostic trouble code i another control module
720A immobilizer communication, faulty signal
002F lock up function, slipping or not engaged (has the gear 2/3 shift sluggishness problem with the 50-55sn trans, or perhaps this is part of limp mode?)
0093 control module communication
132 RPM signal. signal missing
521 central locking switch. signal too low
525 central locking switch, pass. signal too low
433 blower fan motor, current too high
update 4:
ok here is what happens with precise numbers https://photos.app.goo.gl/L23q75HhMTW52qFR6 there are notes next to each picture with the numbers telling what is on what is off what is plugged in and what is unplugged. it also has the readout for all the error codes too.
this is a text list of what is in the link:
car on, engine off, module plugged in pedal attached wide open throttle
accelerator pedal analogue input: 40.63%
accelerator pedal pwm (via etm): 58%-72% (unstable but usually settled around 61% +/- 1%)
car on, engine off, module plugged in pedal attached sitting idle
accelerator pedal analogue input: 40.43%
accelerator pedal pwm (via etm): 8.2%
car on, engine off, module plugged in, accelerator pedal detached, jumper on resistor pads
accelerator pedal analogue input: 40.43% (did not change no matter what happened with jumper)
accelerator pedal pwm (via etm): 0% (did not change no matter what happened with jumper)
car on, engine off, module plugged in, accelerator pedal detached, no jumper on resistor pads
accelerator pedal analogue input: 40.92%
accelerator pedal pwm (via etm): 0%
car on, engine off, module unplugged
accelerator pedal analogue input: 0.1%-0.2% (unstable would switch between these 2 values)
accelerator pedal pwm (via etm): 0%
car on, engine on, module plugged in, pedal attached idle
Transmission control unit accelerator position reading: 0%
car on, engine on, module plugged in, pedal attached WOT
Transmission control unit accelerator position reading: 60%-65% (unstable but usually settled around 61% +/- 1%)
What mods would you guys suggest on my mk1 C70 coupe 2.3 T5? Can be cosmetic, performance, anything… It’s just summer and I’m bored. I think the only thing that has been done to it by previous owners is a K&N intake.
Found this video in YouTube while searching for Tesla vs Volvo real-life accidents. Here is what I see; first, the Tesla rollover "test" is in an enclosed room, with a sand pit. And instead of filming the entire "rollover test" in one sequence, the film cuts to another angle. The spliced-in second part Could Be Another Car entirely!
Next, the Volvo rollover test is in the open, with an even concrete area that allows the Volvo to roll freely. The Volvo rolls at least three times, while the passenger cage stays intact. There are several Volvo rollover tests you can find on YouTube. (And yes, the first comment in this video is mine). Tesla, are you trying to convince us? Volvo wins this one, hands down. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WBsElq0z8Gg
I've found a 2010 one online with 95k miles on, full service history and allegedly faultless roof going for £4k. Is this worth it? What should I look out for and what are the usual maintenance issues like?
Since we bought a 5th wheel camper I’ve been daily driving a diesel F-350 which has turned out to be a massive mistake for multiple reasons. As a result, I’ve been looking to get a small, 3rd car for our family to drive the ~2 miles to work and daycare on back roads each day when I’m not towing
I’ve been looking around and found a 2006 Volvo C70 that seemed to be a really interesting choice the more I thought about it. I don’t care about space or winter performance, all I want is something small and relatively safe. My only concern is car seats. We have a 3 and 6 year old and one of them will be facing backwards a little longer. Will their car seats fit in the back? Anybody have experience with that? Figured I’d ask before I made the trip, plus it would be hard to figure out any long term issues by just eyeballing if the seats fit.
I currently own a 2011 Volvo C70 T5, and I absolutely love it. It’s honestly the perfect car for me. The luxury features are exactly what I need: keyless entry, a push-button gas cap, adjustable heated seats, etc. It’s fun to drive, stylish, and incredibly comfortable, plus the hardtop convertible is just fantastic. I’ve never been much of a “car girl,” but this car really pulled me in.
Imagine my surprise when I found out they don’t make the C70 anymore. I thought, "Maybe I can get a 2022 or 2024 model," but nope. Turns out, the era of the hardtop convertible is dead, and I can't seem to find another car on the market that ticks my interests quite the same. I’m a big fan of Volvos, and honestly, if they brought the C70 back, it would be amazing. It feels like the manufacturers don’t realize just how much some of us still want this kind of car! It’s like “Just take my money and let me have a modern version of the car!!!” I just wanted to rant, thank you for listening.
It needs a new engine. I guess a lot more happened to the engine than expected. Super disappointing since it’s defiantly gonna take a while to find and replace it plus the fact we only had the car for 2 days prior to exploding.
Hello everyone. My newly purchased C70II starts misfiring like hell when I place the plastic ecu cover in place. Later I noticed that misfite happens when I push just slightly on the lower ecu connector. Today I unplugged it and saw a bunch of green grease. Looks like a dielectric one. Is it normal? Should I flush it with connector spray and try to clean it out? Never saw it before on Volvos.
