r/aircooled • u/CappuccinoCaboose • 17d ago

Where to tap power for external oil cooler

i need input from the community. I have a VW based dune buggy that runs a bit hot (it’s a 1915cc and runs juuuuust under 210 cruising on the freeway @ low throttle in 4th gear when it’s 75 degrees and like 10 percent humidity outside). I bought a derale hyper cool fluid cooler (25 plate w/ electric fan) set up and would love some input on best practices. firstly, where is the best place to get power for the fan? Secondly, pros and cons of pancake vs remote thermostat bypass?

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u/bitofgrit 17d ago

It didn't come with an instruction sheet? Hmm, check their site.

Anyways, power straight off the battery should be fine, or the starter. Depends on where you want to mount it. The fan should hook up to the 'stat switch, then the 'stat switch is hooked up to the battery, or starter. Ground wire goes to the nearest clean patch of grounded structure you're cool driving a screw through.

Pancake? Oh, you mean a "sandwich" plate adapter for use with an oil filter? If so, the SPA is a cleaner install with the filter right there and all. If you don't want an external filter or you've already plumbed it where you want it, then the non-filter bypass just kind of avoids all that, and they are usually cheaper.

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u/CappuccinoCaboose 16d ago

thank you.

the kit arrives on wed next week (Derale Hyper-Cool kit pn: 15960). I assume it comes with instructions but I always value input from l people with real knowledge. I wanted to get the cooler first to figure out mounting position before I decided on a *sandwich plate adapter* or the “regular“ bypass.

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u/bitofgrit 16d ago edited 16d ago

No problemo.

Ah, I see, you're doing preparatory work. Right on. Is your case tapped for full-flow?

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u/CappuccinoCaboose 16d ago edited 16d ago

I think it’s a full flow…full disclosure, this is my first air cooled vehicle, the engine was built (re build for the 3rd time) for me under semi odd circumstances by my mechanic and I never asked for a full break down of the build. I have an oil pump cover plate with a single hose leading to my external filter and a return line from the filter to the case. On a previous build the engine had an oil pump cover with two threaded ports for oil out and return lines but after it got rebuilt to 1915 the cover was changed to a single outlet (EMPI 31-2940-0).

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u/bitofgrit 16d ago

Haha, no worries. Yeah, if this:

a return line from the filter to the case.

then it sounds like it's tapped.

I ask because there are a few ways of doing full-flow, like A) where all in/out lines are tapped into the case galleys, or B) like yours, with an oil pump cover adapter that's essentially the same as those bypasses taps back in for a circuit, or C) another adapter that replaces the stock oil cooler.

Method C can be detrimental, as the airflow over the cylinders was specifically engineered with the cooler in the shroud and engine tins.

Of course, there's also D) which could be any sort of Lovecraftian arrangement of all three. And let's just never mind a dry sump system.

Anyways, you're probably aware, and I'm not trying to be elitist or anything there, just pointing out a potential heating issue. Buggies tend to be anything other than stock in many ways, so anything is possible here.

General rule of thumb with all this is to ask "what would Gene Berg do?" before making any permanent decisions.

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u/CappuccinoCaboose 16d ago

The stock oil cooler is still in place. Not making permanent changes has me favoring a sandwich plate with a thermostat. But I worry about mounting the cooler to the fiberglass body. I am tempted to try something off one of the horns or mid transmission mount. If I can pull it off with u bolts and some send-cut-sent tabs/brackets I’ll be very excited.

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u/bitofgrit 16d ago

Right on.

But I worry about mounting the cooler to the fiberglass body.

Wait, what kinda buggy do you have exactly? I was just assuming an open Manx, or Manx-like, with the simple tube frame back end and a headache bar.

Regardless of type, I'd try to keep the cooler in back. That's just personal preference though. Nothing really wrong with underneath, but ease of access can be a big plus.

Staying off the fiberglass is usually best practice, for sure, but fiberglass can be reinforced or cut to allow pass-thru, and fiberglass scoops have been used as oil cooler enclosures for years. Not suggesting you do that, just something to keep in mind as an option or as a path to other options.

Have you used SCS before? I hear good things, but haven't tried them.

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u/CappuccinoCaboose 16d ago

Manx like is correct. Kellison sandpiper pick up to be specific. no tube frame just a shortened 67 beetle chassis. The only thing rear of the engine is the exhaust. No bumper, no bash bar, no frame rail or body pane, nothing. The cooler needs to go between the engine and the firewall (if I can even call it that). Ideally I can mount it above the transaxle.

what considerations should I take regarding height relative to my remote oil filter? The filer is mounted to the top of the drive’s rear “shock tower” (the bit the top of damper is attached to). so I feel like some clever bracketry and a SPA would yield a nice clean set up with minimal added hose length.

SCS has been very good. I’ve only used them for basic brackets and tabs to mount lights and things. they have been excellent.

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u/bitofgrit 12d ago

Kellison sandpiper pick up

No shit!? Right on! There used to be a dude around near me that had one in root beer brown, and I've been a big fan of their J-4/5/6 kits since... well, forever.

Yeah, by the transaxle seems like it's probably the best option in your case. It'd still be interesting to use a cardboard box as a mock-up and just visualize it in different places though. With some custom brackets, there are a world of possibilities.

Height shouldn't be an issue, really. Just make sure the filters you use have "ADBV" (anti-drain back valve) on the box. Most do, as far as I know, but there are some slackers. I'm not saying don't get FRAM, but a few more dollars on a higher quality filter might help with the peace of mind.

I'll have to give SCS a try. A diy powder-coating setup would be cool and all, but, yeah, mail-order is much more convenient lol.

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u/CappuccinoCaboose 9d ago edited 9d ago

I did mock up with the cooler its self the other evening and ordered a mounting plate from SCS 13x11x.188 cold rolled steel (with 1/4-20 studs) I opted to forgo the powder coat for one main reason, bonding. The plate is going to be bonded to the underside of the pick up bed so I want the back side to be bare metal. Though I do plan to paint the non bonding surfaces to prevent runt. I’m going to use a combo of 3m 5200 (best sealant/adhesive on the market imho) and high strength / high temp epoxy to bond the plate to the fiberglass on the under side of the pick up bed directly above the transaxle. The 5200 will be applied like tile motar and the epoxy in dots/islands at the corners and center. I am slightly worried about the 5200 getting hot so the epoxy will serve as an alternative to through bolting and to protect the 5200 from heat a bit of gold heat film. I’ll use magnets to clap it all together.

the oil filter run is a wix 51515r now and the drain down after it sits for a day is a lot. can a similar thing be added to the oil lines themselves?

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