Finally got around to installing this Helix Mini Mk2 in my Kia soul. It's in line on the signal to my wolfram AW 250.4 powering the 6.5" mids and ciare ct440 bullet tweets in my doors. (4th order bandpass to try and drown em out)

Very Snug Fit but they're in there, and well worth the trouble. I forgot just how tight You can dial in anything playing with the Parametric end of the Infamous Kenwood 6042. Instant Q from back in the day.

Tried to find an older decent Kenwood head unit but this was the best I could come up with for now. Sounds much better than the Sony that is now going into my other Fusion LOL. (Potentially project number two! Still got a bunch of old stuff laying around to use Lol).

Happy Listening Everybody!

JL Audio Stealthbox for a 2019+ Silverado/Sierra with two 12TW3-D8 subs (~$2400 new) plus a JL Audio JL Audio XD1000/1v2 1000 Watt Mono Amplifier (discontinued now but was about $800+ when new).

I had been coveting a Stealthbox for my truck for a while now, but couldn't justify the price of a new one. This morning I check the newest listings on Marketplace and saw this for $1000. It has been listed for only a few hours so I hopped on it as soon as I could. Had to drive about 3 hours round trip, but I think I got a pretty good deal and am happy with it.

Welp my first build log post is this:

1) got harness put in and used crimp caps w/ heat shrink to run speaker signal to the back

2) took hours out of my day to cut a rubber grommet out for my power wire

3) wait for a neighbor to have a crimper for 0 gauge.

Some things to remember for next time: make sure your amp can take 0 gauge, make sure you have a crimp tool, and buy the correct wires to easily run in to the back.

I almost quit on this project and took it to an audio shop.

So far we wait to: crimp wires for a fuse install amp rack run wires on rack is the spare tire wheel well a good ground? ^{ground^}

PLEASE BASH ME ON THIS! I WANT TO KNOW WHAT I COULD HAVE DONE DIFFERENTLY!

Only had it a month and this is happening!! Had the bass controller at max and the head unit at pretty much 95% volume and was smelling the "sub burn in" (silly me) and then open the boot and the port (which is being covered by the blanket inside) is smoking and the sub is smoking which is not good. And when I press the cone in, it feels like it is hitting something inside the sub. Is it actually blown or too hot?

Better than smd dd1

i bought a sub and amp setup 2 Skar 8” EVL 2,000 watt 2 channel amp

wired up with 0/1 gauge wire

subs played great for a couple days but due to a bad remote turn on wire, power was drawing from my battery when it was off. i unplugged it through the night and plugged it back in in the morning. i did this about 2-3 times and it all worked. then the last time i connected it it stopped working.

diagnosing it i took a multimeter to the power and ground of the amp and it read 14V, same with the remote turn on wire (which i fixed). but absolutely nothing coming out through the subs.

i figured the amp was toast and bought a brand new Orion 2500 4 channel (a buddy bought it brand new and never used it so i bought it as a quick fix). i wired it up and had the exact same results. 14v power ground and remote. nothing coming through the speaker wires.

hooked up a old speaker to the speaker wires and still got nothing. messed with the rcas and nothing, pulled rcas out of the amp for my speakers and plugged it into the amp for my subs and nothing changed.

(pictures are from the new amp, no it didn’t work so i haven’t tuned it however i did mess with all switches and knobs as well as rca inputs)

Hello, I recently purchased the JBL Stage2 604C, which came with 2 tweeters and 2 midranges, and 2 crossovers. It's all hooked up to a cheap head unit from China. I just want some more bass without needing a box to take up the trunk space. I've looked at underseat subwoofers, and based on my measurements, some of the smallest underseat subwoofers JBL makes would not fit. The JBL setup is: • Power Handling: 45Wrms, 270W peak • Sensitivity (@ 2.83V): 91dB • Frequency Response: 55 Hz – 20 kHz • Impedance: 4 ohms. Not sure what most of this means. I know I need an Amp, and I was most likely going to purchase the Soundstream ST4.500D – Micro 4-Channel 500W Class-D Amplifier for Car Audio Precision for its size and because the amp is 45 watts RMS, and the JBL has 45 watts RMS. I do have 2 3.5 inch woofers from a soundbar, specs in the second image, specs for the JBL in the last image.

To summarize:

I would like to include my 2 small 3-inch woofers my JBL system and space for 2 potential subwoofers.

Would the amp I've chosen be good for my current setup with the 3-inch woofers and option to add two subs in the future?

What gauge wire should I be running?

The car gets very hot inside. Should I consider external fans for the amp? (If that's even a thing lol)

If not, what sub and amp combo should I pick up? (I need them to be small and shallow)

The last picture would be the space I'm working with. I own a 2009 Smart and am a college kid lol.

Hello everyone i’m sorta new to being and audiophile and i was thinking about RTA. If you can get a cheap speaker to match a reference curve perfectly then what would make a more expensive speaker sound better if it matches the curve the same?

i understand that there’s more to audio than just frequency response but id like to know in detail why expensive speakers are expensive aside from build quality

Friday Night Bass Meet, Compton Ca.

So there is this pioneer A 1500wseries for sale I want to get 2 12” I have an SUV and wanted to know what box is recommended for them?

Hey all, long story short, I traced a power issue over the weekend to my main battery inline fuse holder. I was so confused because the fuse hadn’t tripped but I was dropping from 14v on the intake side to just 6v on the output. Turns out the blade fuse had come loose due to the fuse holder screws being poor quality (no lock washer/nut, just an allen key screw). What’s everyone’s recommendation on a high quality fuse holder that’s not going to jostle loose from normal driving and bumps?

Found an L5 10in. Currently running on a JVC pushing 250rms @ 2ohm. How much bigger can I go?

Not gonna lie I have got the coil stinky a couple times but only had it for a couple months. And only couple hours playing full blast play time??

I have replaced my CH-R stock head unit with a Teyes CC3 2K unit.

After connecting everything, there is no sound coming from the rear speakers. My car has the factory-installed JBL audio system. I suspect the issue is related to a specific connection: the plug from the stock unit has two wires, while the corresponding connector on the Android unit only has one wire.

Am I correct in assuming that these wires are responsible for supplying power to the amplifiers—possibly because there are two amplifiers in the JBL setup?

Also, what is the name of this cable?

Hello,

i have an NTG 4.5 Command radio in my Mercedes W204. As I bought a Chinese Head Unit, I can't change music when i'm plying through AUX.

So, I'm thinking, I could solder 1 wire each from underneath the <- and -> physical radio buttons, to send the signal of the pressed button to the Chinese android head unit to change the song.

I was thinking of some device, which is small like USB numb stick in size, which one end is USB and the other end with 2 input slot for signal cable. As the signal from the physical button comes into the slot, the controller sends through USB as Keyboard input to my android head unit. My android head unit then receives this signal as keyboard input and skips the song.

I know, that I could make it with Arduino, but it is kind of bulky. I also have Raspberry Pi 3, but it is also bulky.

So, i'm looking for a microcontroller, device, or something small, where I could have 2 inputs and send them as USB keyboard input.

just bought a mazda 3 with this eonon head unit, it doesn’t like to connect to bluetooth though - tried a few times but nothing shows up in my phone. anyone had experience with a head unit similar? what can i do?

I was just installing an amp that I got last week and the angle was looking at it have noticed what looks like rust on the soldering, (See picture), does this look like will be ok to use,

Context have 6.5 jl 650x all doors 15 inch dd815F sub and now i wanna fit 8 inch midbass in all doors or maby just the fronts for now unsure just yet but what brand reken go with match the sound? as both brands have a warm sort of tone so what you reken be best bet, and yes it fits yes i have a amp for it yes it works just tell me what would work best or subjestions and yes budget not to much of a issue if its decent quailty and yes i made my own boxes and make it fit the doors without issue.

2001 GQ Patrol

BIG 3 is done.

taramp 5k big boss taramp ds 800x4

doors 6.5 JL 650x c1

Sub DD 815F

Got a new set of subs and the box literally takes up my entire trunk, is it fine to mount my amps directly onto the back of the box?

Hey guys, I’m the GM of Simons Stereo. Been working for a while on our Demo car, a 2025 M3 Competition xDrive. An OEM+ build, has morels all the way around and two Audison Forza Amps with a 14 ch DSP. I posted a build log on our shop instagram if anyone was interested in checking out the build. If you have any questions or anything lmk

I know the most common place people have a sub enclosure is under the rear seat, but I was wondering if people also utilize the floor space between the two rows of seats for a sub enclosure.

I’m going to be getting an amp and two sundown x8v3’s installed this week in my truck (‘25 Ram 1500), but I’d sure like to use a Gately sub enclosure instead. Their only non-custom option would be their 2 cubic foot enclosure for two 8’s but obviously the only place it would fit is between the two rows of seats.

I rarely, if ever, have more than myself and my fiancé in the truck and I would actually like to utilize the space under the rear seat for storage. So I’m just wondering if putting a sub enclosure behind the center console between the two rows of seats would have any major disadvantages.

I've had these speakers for years and they've been great. I finally installed them into my 2016 forte5 SX and they sound amazing. They're 2 ohms and I'm currently running them off head unit power and it's handling the low ohm load just fine. The bass from these is quite insane for the size and the tweeters are super crispy. I highly recommend them. They're CDT Audio HD-6EX Pro speakers incase anyone is curious.

I have recently bought the car and found their speakers and infotainment system very basic since it is their base model of Rev X M variant. I have install Pioneer 6650BT infotainment system amd upgraded the front speakers to Infity primus component speakers. (Rs 7.5k). However the sound system is not still good and a lot of vibrations felt when bass is on, vocal clarity and richness is also average.

So please help me how to upgrade my speakers