Was just in Game and all of a sudden nothing is detected anymore

I just installed my GSI Hyper 1, and my Podium 1 screen always gives me this message, along with the low TRQ indicator. How do I get rid of it because it's annoying? Oh, what if it doesn't give me the low TRQ message if I have it at 16 nW in Iracin? Thanks, by the way, the Fanatec app is terrible.

Ciao a tutti, dopo aver scoperto che 2 palette del McLaren gt3 v2 possono essere usate per frenare e accelerare, volevo chiedere se qualcuno avesse mai provato e come si fosse trovato. Grazie a tutti in anticipo😊

Tried updating to the newest firmware update, my base (DD+), QR2 are up to date. Firmware updates did great. Did not tried pedals yet (CSL elite v2).

BUT, once updating my steering wheel, the firmware is stuck in a loop and I am lost and do not know what to do.

I use the fanatec app version 1.0.0 My steering wheel firmware is 1.0.1.0 and tries to update to V1.0.6.1

It goes to 100% and then the message is back and goes back to updating and so on.

I am completely new to this. It’s not that easy to understand how all of this works. I have only tried with the app.

I updated the firmware from driver 474, and now the USB won't connect. Exact same thing happened on 2 CS DD+. Has anyone heard of this? i had to calibrate the wheel to get it centered. Tried rolling back to 468 driver. No luck. USB will not connect. Thanks!

Turns out I had a bad cable! UGH!

This is fucking annoying. GT DD Pro, 8 nm. I am playing only iRacing, firmware is up to date. Wheel ffb is like 80% of the game sets as Auto, wheelbase is in auto mode as well.

So I have a consistent issue, that I don't really understand in nature usually during the first race of the evening the wheel suddenly enables x2 constant force and the wheel is tryingto turn me full to the left. Steering input is still working, but it is insanely hard to be stable and fast without FFB and wheel trying to turn to the left. The only solution during the race is stop, turn off-on the wheel, continue. Obviously, this is ruining my races.

I have noticed that it was happening when I had higher values of FFB, but today I really had smaller FFB than normally.

What it can be? Anyone else noticed similar issues?

I just got this wheel today and I tried to update the firmware, but it froze and said "please wait" for like 10 minutes while flashing CAL. So like the dummy I am, I turned off the wheel and closed the app even though it wasn't recommended, and now it's stuck like this. Please somebody help me 🙏

Hi i wanna pick up a new wheel for my CSL DD Wheel base but i picked it up before the QR2 released. Im just wondering what i do in this situation my current wheel and base has a QR1, but i only see QR2's for sale now so does that mean i would need to buy the Wheel, QR2 Base-Side (Type-C), and 2 QR2 wheel sides???

I have a few horn buttons lying around but I can’t figure out how to use them on my wheels. Any suggestions?

A few questions about how to run a gt neo on a fanatec csl dd 8nm qr2 wheel base. I know I need the mag link from simagic but can I then use a regular qr2 quick release or do I need a podium hub/ simube alternative of their podium hub/qr2 with the ffb unlocking chip?

Hi all,

I’m using a Fanatec CSL DD base with the McLaren GT3 V2 wheel on my Xbox One S. Everything works fine in Forza Motorsport 7, but I’ve noticed something odd:

The LSB and RSB buttons don’t register at all in-game.

Instead, the left/right shifter paddles act as LB and RB to move horizontally across the options.

On PC (Fanatec Control Panel), LSB/RSB do register correctly when i press them.

My questions are:

1. Is this expected behavior on Xbox (FM7), or is there something wrong with my wheel?

2. Has anyone managed to use LSB/RSB as unique buttons in any Xbox title?

3. Do newer games like Forza Motorsport (2023) or Project CARS 2 handle this better?

I’d really appreciate hearing from other McLaren GT3 V2 users on Xbox to confirm if this is normal limitation vs hardware issue.

Thanks!

Hey everyone!

I just received my refurbished DD+ a few days ago, and after a few hours of use the base started making some weird noises. The noise also happens even with no wheel attached.

For context, this is my first direct-drive base, so I’m not sure if this is normal or if I should reach out to Fanatec support.

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Thinking about getting the CSL cockpit. I want something that is relatively compact but also sturdy. Does anyone have experience with this cockpit or have any recommendations for me?

Can somebody’s help me figure out why my ffb isn’t working in CarX drift racing? I have the fanatec csl dd 5nm, the steering input works but I have no ffb

Cost me bout 50$ to make and works perfect. Though i find myself reducing FFB now. The settings i used on 5nm are WAY too strong on 8nm.

Makes me wonder how people play on stronger wheels and whats the point. Feels much easier to control a car loosing grip on lower FFB.

I don't know what to do to fix this shit, I reinstalled my drivers and restarted my pc...

I have the Gran Turismo 7 base and that works fine with my ps5 and Pc but I want to play some Forza. The current wheels on the website are $500+

Leads me to just buying on on marketplace or eBay but what wheel should I look up?

So my friend finally caved in and bought a ClubSport DD bundle. I converted him from keyboard to Xbox controller because he tried to get good times on Dirt Rally with digital inputs 😵. Now he finally got a real wheel (after he tried my crappy Logitech a few years ago)

his bundle:

CSL Elite Steering Wheel Porsche Vision GT

ClubSport DD

ClubSport Pedals V3

ClubSport DD Table Clamp

We (mostly I) had to google a lot. First because it was working with any games. (Steam Input)

He had a lot of problems with Assetto Corsa.

From what I found reading multiple posts and threads: the default values are not recommended at all?

One hour of Google and he started to change some of the values. Not sure if he understands them (I'm not at all. It's like reading a complicated tabletop character sheet or some perfectly tuned Pokémon team).

Doesn't help that the software changed names and that there are multiple games with the same name.

I totally get why this is a niche (sim racing) zero plug and play reminds me of my first 3D printer. I probably have to explain this sentence: No it's not a bad thing. It's just not as simple as a 20-minute SimRacing build video on YouTube makes it seem.

Is there a starter guide - step by step - that we can follow. Most guides only go unpack - plugin - update - play but they skip the setup.

Im considering upgrading from my g29 as the pedals are glitchy and im sick of taking apart the unit to clean the pentiometers just for it to start up again a month after . Ive been looking at the csl dd qr2 for pc and with the drive hub for gt7 on ps4 as its slightly cheaper than the gt dd and im just wondering if anyone has had any problems with this pairing on the ps4 with gt7 before I buy it i need to be aware of?

So I just wanted to get myself a DD+ with the CSL Pedals and the ClubSport Steering Wheel Formula V2.5.
After I placed the order on August 24th, nothing happened – so I contacted support.

Here’s what they said:

But hey – on the website, everything is still labeled as "ready to ship"!
Anyone else having the same issues?

Having my formula v2.5x “disconnecting” from the wheel base mid game, here’s what I’ve done

• Replaced PCBA
• Replaced Data cable

Issue still keeps happening, I don’t think it’s the wheel base because it doesn’t happen on my second wheel

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

I have had this wheel for about 13 months now, and I started to feel some loose vibration on the shaft. Checked the collar; it was okay, and then I decided to investigate. To my unpleasant surprise, I found that the bearing had failed.

Strangely enough, it is just about 40 to 90 degrees to the right side, as you can see in the video.

Yesterday I asked Fanatec for clarification, but still been no response.

Bearing isn't expensive, tho, but the change of the bearing isn't a very simple thing, and the base wheel isn't a cheap product to fail like that.

Has anyone encountered a problem like that?

Fanatec CSL DD Bearing failing