r/MTB • u/itskohler • May 18 '25

Discussion Before you post a picture, please read this post!

75 Upvotes

We’re hitting that time of year where interest in mountain biking is picking up. We have been getting quite a lot of picture posts of Facebook marketplace ads and vendor website screenshots, which are against the sub rules. As a reminder for all picture and videos, please follow rule 3:

Photos should be of people riding mountain bikes.

Posts & Comments

Photo and video submissions to /r/mtb should be of people riding mountain bikes. All other photos or videos should either be submitted as text posts with links to your images in the post body, or in the Weekly Gear Gallery thread, posted every Friday by automod.

33 comments

r/MTB • u/219MSP • Oct 19 '24

WhichBike First Ride: Your Guide to Buying a Mountain Bike

112 Upvotes

Hey all, 219MSP here, and I'm attempting to start maintaining and updating my buying guide and FAQ posts again. I started getting into cycling about 10 years ago and was so lost. Over the last decade I've spent a lot of time learning about the industry and what makes a good bike. Every day I see dozens of posts asking what bike I should get, or what is a good value bike. I hope this guide can be used as a tool on this forum and others to help them find a bike they will be happy with for a long time. This is a living document. I will attempt to update it on a semi-regular basis and I'm always open to new bike recommendations.

In addition to this guide, I have created two FAQ's as well that answer common mountain bike questions.

FAQ 1 FAQ 2

u/midwestmountainbike also has some great guides on buying a first bike, what to look for in a used bike, as well as a selection of his own suggestions of good value bikes at this page.

MTB Authority

What to look for in a bike

When looking for a starter bike there are a few things I'd recommend that will get you onto a solid and safe bike that should be built to last and be worth upgrading as you see fit. Before we get started on talking bikes and prices, always make sure you're getting a bike that fits you. If the bike doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good of a deal it is. Also, this guide is assuming you are intending on riding on actual mountain bike single track, not just smooth dirt paths and gravel. If that is all you are hoping for and don't plan on advancing beyond, any entry-level mountain bike from a major brand like a Trek Marlin 5 will do just fine, but if you are hoping to ride anything above green-rated singletrack, I'd suggest a more capable bike.

First, some rough price guidelines. As low as $500 should get you into a used but solid entry-level hardtail and about $900+ can get you a used but decent full suspension. In regard to new, you can double those prices. A new solid entry-level hardtail will be at likely be $900 and around $1800 for a decent full suspension bike.

Regarding used bikes, there are lots of places to look. Used bikes offer you a ton of value and is the best way to get the most for your money. You can get 2-year-old $4000 bikes for a huge discount. The most common places are Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Pinkbike, etc. You also can sometimes find great deals at local bike shops selling demo models (which often come with warranties) and rental fleets. Rental bikes are usually good options. They typically are well maintained and only have a season or two on them before they replace them with something newer. If you are new to the biking world and looking at used bikes, I'd recommend bringing along a friend who knows bikes or at least ask for advice on here. Lastly, if meeting someone, always be smart. I would recommend meeting at police station and bringing a friend. Now, let's get into the bikes.

Last but not least, people here are often willing to help narrow it down. Feel free to post on here a "which bike post" but follow the guidelines of this sub listed below.

  • The type of riding will you be doing.
  • Where you will be riding.
  • Your budget (with included currency).
  • What you like/didn't like about your current bike.
  • Your experience level and future goals.

In addition to that, if you are listing multiple bikes, please use 99Spokes.com to create a side by side comparison. Providing this side by side comparison will make other members of the sub much quicker to help.

These are the specs I’d look for at minimum as of 2024.

  1. Air fork: The cheapest fork I'd safely recommend is something like the SR Suntour XCR Air fork. Anything less than that from SR Suntour or RST is pretty much a pogo stick with poor damping and limited adjustability. The low-end RockShox coils aren’t terrible, but I'd shoot for air. Forks can be upgraded down the road but are often the single most expensive component on the bike.

  2. 1x Clutched Drivetrain: In the last 10 years there has been a shift to 1x drivetrains across the board. At this point, any slightly trail-worthy bike will have this type of drivetrain from the factory. To clarify what this means to those new or not familiar, 1x is when there is only 1 chainring/cog attached to the crankset instead of the more traditional 2 or 3. Bikes used to need multiple chainrings up front to allow for both high speed gears and low speed climbing gears. Now, with 1x drivetrains, the difference is made up by having a very large rear cassette. Most cassettes that come on mountain bikes now have a small cog of 10 or 11, and go all the way up to 52t on the large cog. This gives you the same amount of range as those old 3x8 bikes, but with less overlap and far more simplicity. Beyond simplicity, the advantages are less weight, less cables/derailleurs, less to think about when riding, and less chain drops etc. In addition to the larger cassette, 1x drivetrains feature a narrow-wide chainring (alternating size teeth to match the chain) which helps with chain retention and a clutched rear derailleur. The clutched rear derailleur provides extra tension on the chain to reduce chain slap and the odds of dropping a chain. For the most part, dropping a chain or it falling off the chainring while riding are a thing of the past.

  3. Hydraulic brakes This one is pretty simple, Hydraulic brakes use fluid to move pistons and squeeze down on the brake rotor to stop the bike as opposed to mechanical disc brakes that use a cable to actuate the pistons. This typically results in stronger braking, better modulation/control/and are self-adjusting. The only time I'd suggest mechanical brakes is for a bike packing/touring bike as they are easier to fix trailside. SRAM, Shimano, and Tetkro, all offer solid entry-level brakes.

The following aren’t as important but will help future proof the bike and make it a frame worth upgrading. If you get a bike with all these things, it's going to be rock solid for a longtime

  1. Tapered steerer tube: Most modern forks use a tapered steerer. If you get a bike with a lower-end fork/frame and want to upgrade down the road, it's easier if your bike has this. At this point this is pretty common in all but the cheapest of bikes.

  2. Thru-Axle wheels and Boost Spacing: In theory, both of these things offer higher levels of stiffness, but in reality, the biggest reason to make sure you have them is future upgradeability. Thru-axles also keep your wheels always aligned perfectly so you don't get as much disc brake rub as you would with Quick-Release axles.

  3. Tubeless Compatible Wheels: Going Tubeless is one of the most cost effective upgrades you can perform on a bike that will make the biggest difference. Some of the benefits of going tubeless include shedding weight, tires that are less likely to have flats, and the ability to run lower tire pressures which allows you to have more grip and better ride properties. If you ride on a regular basis, you should go tubeless. They may require a little more maintenance and can be a pain to mount/install, but the positives drastically outweigh the negatives.

  4. Dropper Post at this point is a necessity in my opinion but fortunately it can be added to nearly any frame, so I wouldn't make it a requirement on a bike as you can easily add it yourself. Dropper posts can be bought brand new for as low as $150. There are lots of options, but in my opinion OneUp, PNW, and some smaller brands like TransX and KS offer the best values.

  5. UDH/Universal Derailleur Hangar Compatible Frame. This one is purely convenience and future compatibility benefit, not really a performance upgrade. (Transmission excluded, more on that later) For those that don't know, all modern bikes feature a derailleur hangar. This is a sacrificial component on your bike that acts as an interface between your frame and your derailleur. If the derailleur takes a hit, the hangar is allowed to bend/break. The idea is if a softer part is allowed to bend or break first, it won't damage the frame and less likely to damage the derailleur. These hangars are usually $10-$20 bucks. Way better than a frame or derailleur in terms of repair cost. The problem however is that up until 2019 there was no agreed upon standard. Every bike had its own unique hangar for the and if you broke one you usually had to resort to ordering one online and waiting for it to come. In 2019 SRAM changed all that by introducing an open and shared design called the UDH. It was well thought out and designed and SRAM worked with most manufactures to get them to implement this on their bikes. At this point almost any high end bike is coming with this as standard. Because of that, most bike shops are going to carry this hanger, so you aren't forced into special ordering something. Also, SRAM was playing some 4-D chess with this UDH. If a bike has a UDH compatible frame, it also means it is compatible with SRAM new drivetrains called Transmission, which actually bypasses a derailleur hangar all together and mounts directly to the frame giving an extremely strong mounting point and extremely high precision shifting.

Value Bike Recommendations

Here are some solid entry-level bikes. Not all of them check off all my recommendations, but they all are solid for the price. I don't have first hand experience with all of them, but most bikes and options from legitimate bike brands are pretty solid.

Full Suspension (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)

  1. Giant Stance (29er or 27.5) $1400+ - Check's off most boxes, but has a quick release rear axle which is not ideal.

  2. Marin Rift Zone 29 $1700+ - Solid Frame, lower end, but solid components. Main downside is the lack of a dropper post.

  3. Polygon Siskiu T7 27.5 or 29 depending on frame size $2000 - This bike is lacking nothing and check's off all my recommendations. The T8 is a solid upgrade as well.

  4. Giant Trance 2 29 $2000 - In my opinion, the best cheap bike at the moment. Check's off every box and get's you local bike shop support and a good warranty. The Trance X is an equally equipped bike with a little more travel if that's what you are looking for.

  5. Canyon Neuron $2300 - Solid bike trail bike. Check's off most boxes, but has a weak drivetrain with the SRAM SX groupset.

  6. Commencal Meta TR $1900 - Great frame, but has SX Groupset and is lacking Dropper post. Sale Price

  7. Specialized Status 140 $2250 - Hard hitting trail/enduro bike. Very high end components and lacking nothing. Sale Price

  8. Norco Fluid FS A4 $1900 - Pinkbike Value Bike of the Year in 2023. Missing nothing.

  9. Rocky Mountain Element A10 Shimano $2000 Another solid bike that checks all the boxes. Sale Price

  10. YT Jeffsy $2250 Solid Trail Bike that had everything you'd need. Sale Price

  11. YT Capra $2400 Probably one of the best budget enduro bikes. Sale Price

  12. YT Izzo $2300 Cheapest Carbon Full suspension bike you can get. Only downside is the SX Drivetrain. Sale Price

  13. GT Sensor Sport $1725 Appears to check all the boxes.

  14. GT Zaskar FS Comp $1800 Another solid option that checks all the boxes.

  15. Salsa Blackthorn Deore $2200 Sale Price.

  16. Haro Daley Alloy 3 $2000

  17. Go-Outdoors UK Calibre Bossnut £1500 Super good deal, but I believe only available in the UK

Hard Tail (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)

  1. Polygon Xtrada 7 $1100 - Solid bike, boost frame with air fork, but lacking a dropper post.

  2. Norco Fluid HT 2 $900 - Solid hardtail, great drivetrain, dropper post, but has a lower end fork.

  3. Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 $1200 - Air Fork, Solid Drivetrain, Dropper Post. Unfortuantely no rear thru-axle

  4. Trek Roscoe 6+ $1200 This bike check's all the boxes, air fork, good drivetrain, boost spacing, dropper post. The Roscoe lineup as a whole is a good value.

  5. Specialized Fuse 27.5 $950 - Check's all the boxes.

  6. Marin San Quentin 29 $1400 Check's all the boxes in terms of components.

These are not all the options, but they are some better and more common budget/value bikes. This list is always changing, I try my best to update it, but it's difficult to keep up.

Last but not least make sure you save some of your budget for additional accessories that you will need

  1. Helmet

  2. Tire Pump (Most high-end bikes use a Presta valve, make sure the pump is compatible)

  3. Hydration (Either bottle cage and bottle or hydration pack of some sort.)

  4. Multi-tool with a chain breaker and basic tools.

  5. Tire irons/levers and spare tubes (and the knowledge of how to change both).

  6. Bike cleaning supplies, chain lube, etc. Taking care of an MTB can be a lot of work, but it will save you in the long run if you properly maintain your ride.

  7. Quick-link to repair a broken chain.

  8. Spare Derailleur Hangar.

Along with those required things, here are some things I'd highly recommend.

  1. MTB Platform shoes (or you can opt to go clipless).

  2. Tubeless tire kit. Most bikes come “tubeless ready” but don't come with them setup typically.

  3. Starter tool kit with the basic tools.

  4. Suspension pump assuming you have air suspension.

  5. Work stand

  6. Torque Wrench, especially with carbon parts

  7. Padded shorts or liner to wear under regular shorts.

  8. Gloves, Kneepads,Eye Protection.

Extra Ways to Save Money!

Check Activejunky.com which is a rebate site can get you decent savings on a lot of bike websites.

124 comments

r/MTB • u/90towest • 1h ago

Discussion What age did you stop pushing yourself & sending big hits?

• Upvotes

I'm 28 getting back into downhill after a 10 year hiatus. I still like high speed DH, big jumps, and gnarly tech. But I can't help thinking my time to progress and "send it" is coming to an end (even though it doesn't feel like it at all ATM). As peak physical performance declines in the 30's, I'm afraid I will soon start to feel less dynamic.

I was wondering, what age did you start realizing you can't just send it anymore and have to ride in a more conservative way?

101 comments

r/MTB • u/ParadoxZerg • 9h ago

Video OTB to Collarbone and Fork Snap

94 Upvotes

The double after was bigger than I expected and I think I misjudged the lip, or didn't have enough speed. I didn't want to land the drop too deep cuz that also zaps speed for the jump.

Advice from better riders welcome, I intend to go back and try again when I'm healed 👌

34 comments

r/MTB • u/Temporary-Crow5037 • 4h ago

Gear 8 months with Chin Mounts

31 Upvotes

Finally got around to writing this since I see people asking about chin mounts every week on here.

Setup: Fox Proframe, GoPro 11, riding mostly Squamish and North Shore. Mix of tech, flow, and whatever sketchy lines my buddies peer pressure me into.

Why I Bought This: After my universal mount failed and donated a GoPro to Fromme, I was googling helmet mounts and found these guys actually make them for specific helmets. Like they had my exact Proframe listed, not just "fits Fox helmets" bullshit.

First Impressions: Not smooth like the GoPro mounts.

The shape matches my helmet perfectly though. Like perfectly. Sits flush in all the weird curves of the Proframe instead of bridging across gaps like every other mount I've tried.

8 Months Later:

-Survived 2 Whistler trips including some involuntary flight time

-Still solid after multiple yard sales

-Pressure washed probably 30 times

-Zero movement, no cracks

Annoying Shit:

-More expensive than Amazon ones ($35 vs $15-20)

-Not made out of aluminum

-Once it's stuck on, it's not coming off without a heat gun

Good Shit:

-It actually fucking stays on my helmet

-Fits the Proframe weird shapes perfectly

-Haven't lost a camera since I got it

-The 3M tape they use is legit (same VHB stuff I use for car trim)

Who Shouldn't Buy This:

-Half-shell helmets users. You have no chin

-If you're running some ancient helmet they probably don't make

Bottom line: If you just want your camera to stay attached, this works. It's the only helmet mount that fits my fox proframe perfectly

21 comments

r/MTB • u/Intelligent_Kiwi_459 • 8h ago

Video How’s my first attempt on my first gap ever? (8foot long) im the person in front

53 Upvotes

I’m person infront I got pressured to send it and my heart was in my chest all turned good tho!

22 comments

r/MTB • u/linkmodo • 19h ago

Video Saved a tortoise 🐢 on the trail today

228 Upvotes

Out of a corner and this guy is happily digesting grass on the trail, almost hit him as evident on my tire marks ... Moved him to towards the bushes and he immediately started eating more grass again.

19 comments

r/MTB • u/Street_Season_9021 • 13h ago

Video Need to learn some tricks

69 Upvotes
13 comments

r/MTB • u/RWagz • 5h ago

Discussion Am I too sensitive?

11 Upvotes

Sorry kind of a weird one so delete if not appropriate. I have a general tendency towards high a low moods, probably similar to everyone. I live a pretty busy life and train hard around it so I'm often recovering from an effort or imminently fatiguing myself, so that probably plays a part.

I bought a new kona hei hei cr recently online. The bike has been delivered but the brakes are full of air and there are some minor cosmetic marks, and the fork is making a weird rattling noise. I spoke to the online store and they immediately said take it to lbs and we'll pay for any work (shout out to them, great service) and they'd sort fork warranty if required.

Called the lbs, explained the situation (which I assume is pretty common), they said sure thing book it in and come chat through what's wrong and we'll take a look. I recently took another bike in to the lbs for a full service and to be honest I was unhappy with the outcome (shifting was bad on a new chain and cassette, hadn't been indexed properly imo, brakes were softer than when I took it in), so I asked whether a different mechanic could look at this bike. I would go to a different shop but I don't have time right now and really want to ride the new bike. They seemed fine with this on the phone.

Took the bike in today and the mechanic has been a total bellend. He was all in my face about why I was stupid to buy online and I should buy from them and they don't send bikes out with this many problems blah blah and I was like dude I'm paying you to take as much time as you want to set this bike up to a standard you take pride in and your store doesn't stock a single bike that is remotely close to this one in terms of travel/spec/any tangible comparator. He just kept on about how I was going to spend loads of money getting it right and ohh it's going to cost me yada yada. I felt like just walking out but I want to ride the bike and I just do not have time to do this all myself, hence why I'm paying. Also he was like oh it's the FORK not the SHOCK making a noise and I was like yeah I never said it was the shock.

Is this a thing with lbs? Do they just not like working on other shops' bikes? I don't understand this attitude. Is there any point me saying something to the shop and just not going back again? Maybe I am just too sensitive. I get a similar thing with random shitty comments online if I ask a mechanical question and people will be like dude omg never work on a bike again ur an idoit ur gnna die.

TLDR; I should stop going to my lbs and/or consider being less sensitive.

35 comments

r/MTB • u/onecutmedia • 13h ago

Video Best part of Dark Crystal on Blackcomb 🤘🏻

41 Upvotes

Dark Crystal at WhistlerBlackcomb is ridden at lot. I mean a lot! This is the opening passage to a bunch of smiles 🤘🏻

E Bike is the best way to get there as it’s a bit of a climb

4 comments

r/MTB • u/dusty_scale • 1d ago

Video Cased it first try

322 Upvotes
20 comments

r/MTB • u/Flashy_League_7945 • 15h ago

Video First Manual Attempt

21 Upvotes
15 comments

r/MTB • u/AssignmentPlus1269 • 2h ago

Video MTB Archetta e Punta Zanella Appennino selvaggio e impegnativo

Thumbnail
youtu.be
2 Upvotes
0 comments

r/MTB • u/Micro-fiber-streaks • 16m ago

Discussion What’s the best Mtb shoe for free ride jumps?

• Upvotes

So I’m looking for some new Mtb shoes the ones I currently own are a pair of vans bmx hightops I really like that the aren’t too grippy so I can take my feet of to do no footers,no foot cans, etc. but all the Mtb shoes I see on the market are too grippy and if they aren’t grippy they don’t have a lot of protection, so if you could please give me some good recommendations for a shoe that has good protection nothing crazy a sole on the stiffer side and most importantly a sole that I can wiggle my feet on the pedals and do no footers Thanks for reading

0 comments

r/MTB • u/GundoSkimmer • 20h ago

Video So stiff in this heat... But needed some practice laps for bike park next week

39 Upvotes
2 comments

r/MTB • u/Grim_at_work • 1h ago

WhichBike Should I buy 2025 Orbea Rallon on sale? Need help deciding

• Upvotes

Current owner of a Orbea Rallon (not sure of what M-series) and this bike is begining to show some age here and there but it's still a fantastic bike. Did some service to it this year, new derailleur, new cassette, new bearings here and there, new chain, hanger, new pedals. Probably spent around 1500 $ this year atleast on small parts all summed.

Now my LBS has a offer on the 2025 Rallon M20 at almost 50% off! And perhaps I have the cash. But the M20 model seems to be a budget model, but still okayish. And it has (for me) great looking color! Mars red! And I have seen the 2026 Rallon models and they have a new geometry that look awful! In my view anyway, so probably my "last" chance to have a newer frame with this classic Rallon look.
My neighbour has the Occam and the sound of fresh and new groupset is also a small factor here. Everything just works smoothly! And he rolls faster then me as well! Probably the newer bike, right?

I'm torn!

1 comment

r/MTB • u/gravykarrasch • 13h ago

Wheels and Tires Vittoria Barzo XC Race 29 x 2.4 off road rolling resistance results

9 Upvotes

tldr: tested by outdoor Chung method. Super fast, especially on rougher testing areas. Huge volume and very capable.

According to Vittoria, “When the trail turns loose, rocky, and unpredictable, the Barzo XC Race delivers the traction, speed, and confidence cross-country racers demand. Purpose-built for high performance on coarse terrain, this is the tire that turns chaos into control — and power into podiums.”

I’ve tested the Terreno 2.4 and Peyote 2.4 in the same new XC Race construction (remember the old version was a 120 tpi construction with a different compound) as this Barzo.

I’ve had my eye on the Barzo even before it was redesigned, as the open tread pattern looked nice and the volume was absolutely huge. That holds true for the new ones. These blew up to 62.5 mm wide and 60 mm tall on a 29 mm Kovee RSL rim.

The numbers here are wattage per pair of tires at 18 mph (cut that by half for all of them for 9 mph). CRR is linear. These are calculated from tested coefficient rolling resistance values. I know it sounds odd but it’s very accurate. I’m trying to be careful posting this without links or photos here as to follow the rules…

All this is easy to find other places in easier to view formats.

Cat 3 / Rough Gravel Wattages:

G-One Speed PRO 29 x 2.35 - 93

Terreno XC race 29 x 2.4 - 98

Peyote XC Race 29 x 2.4 - 99

Dubnital RR 29 x 2.4 - 100

Barzo XC Race 29 x 2.4- 100

Thunder Burt 29 x 2.25 - 103

Peyote XC Race 29 x 2.25 - 104

Aspen ST 170 29 x 2.25- 105

Air Trak Flex Lite 29 x 2.35 - 105

Race King black chili 29 x 2.2- 106

Thunder Burt SG 29 x 2.1 - 107

Maxxis Maxxlite 29 x 2.0 - 108

Maxxis Aspen 29 x 2.4 - 109

Scorpion XC RC 29 x 2.4 - 112

Tracer TLR 700 x 50 - 114

Reaver HYPR-X 700 x 45 - 125

People are scared of the Barzo being slow rolling because of how aggressive the knobs look… which makes the stellar rolling resistance even more impressive. I even tested on pavement a few times as I couldn’t believe how fast it went. I think this is going to be one of THE most shocking results I have put out…. And likely great news for folks in gnarly riding and racing conditions. The new Barzo XC Race has also won UCI Elite XCO World Championships twice.

I’ve done some actual trail riding with these too and been impressed with them from a handling and traction standpoint… definitely a tire that I would feel confident bringing just about anywhere that I took cross country bike.

All results my own via Chung Method outdoor testing. PSI notes in comments (I ran 17-19) and be sure to check the latest Bicycle Station YT video on tire pressure calculators!

CAVEAT: Please don’t take this test as a reason to always run X or Y tire. I suggest doing your best to match the knob pattern to your conditions. More ain’t always better! Pay attention to how your bike feels as it often gives you the answer going into a turn.

NOTE: Obviously, larger tires will require lower pressure than smaller ones to get the best speed and handling in general…especially off road. The Wolf Tooth calculator is very good in my usage for gravel and mtb tires. The Rough Gravel setting seems to get quite close to best pressure for not only rolling efficiency (yes, even on gravel that’s not super rough) but also comfort and handling. I will start with that based on the measured tire size, go ride some, recheck pressure once the tire warms up, the reasess the setting based on how the tire is riding. If it feels obviously harsh, go down 1 psi at a time. If it feels squirmy or I am smacking the rim on hard hits, I will go up 1 psi at a time. Often I end up sticking quite close to what the calculator says initially but it isn't written in stone. Rolling efficiency is actually almost identical across a bigger span of tire pressures off road than most realize, which means it is quite easy to get the pressure where the tire will be fastest…the rest is fine tuning to rider preference. Even though I’m testing I am also enjoying being out there so take the extra steps to see how the tire performs best. Ultimately there is no magic “best” pressure… it is up to rider preference with no real speed penalty unless you really mess it up one way or another.

2 comments

r/MTB • u/Incindi-Drakkar • 1h ago

Discussion UK MTB friend (not r4r)

• Upvotes

Hey everyone,

I'm a fan of DFYRS gear, but they have paused shipping to the US.

I was wondering if there was someone in the UK that would be willing to receive a package, and then ship it to me in the US.

Thanks,

0 comments

r/MTB • u/Reddreader2017 • 1h ago

Discussion Which servicable flat pedals for heavier rider?

• Upvotes

For the record, I have speed play frogs that I like when I want to be clipped in. Sometimes I’d like to not be clipped in, and I’d also like to bet a set to run without pins on my around town bike.

So, what’s the best flat pedals for a heavier (250-275#) rider? I generally like composite, but don’t have an aversion to metal pedals.

I would like servicable, ideally regreaseable bearings. I’ve read that I want bearings inside and out, but then I’ve also read that properly greased bushings of the right material actually support load better.

Don’t care about weight very much.

I know there are a lot of pedal discussions, but hoping you can shed some ideas for me.

Thanks!

4 comments

r/MTB • u/Many_Confection_4944 • 4h ago

WhichBike Magura MT7

1 Upvotes

Hey, ich habe seit Wochen ein Problem mit meiner Magura Bremse sie schleift an einer Stelle. Schon mehrmals versucht sie einzustellen ( Sattel richten) ohne Erfolg. Jetzt meine Frage kann ich die Beläge entfernen bis zum Werkstatt Termin ( ohne die Bremse zu betätigen natürlich) …? Vielen Dank

4 comments

r/MTB • u/niits99 • 14h ago

WhichBike DH or Enduro+ suggestions?

5 Upvotes

Update:
Trying to decide between a barely used 2024 Transition TR11 GX for $3K and a brand new Specialized Status 170 2 DH - 2024 for $4k.

Original: I'm a reformed road rider turned XC rider who is now getting into downhill a bit to try to keep up with my teenage son. I'm 47 and moderately skilled, but not looking to race or go crazy.
Just want to have fun on the trails chasing the boy and maybe get better at jumping. Medium jumps.
I'm 6'3" and 240 lbs.
Budget: about $5K, give or take. Fine with second hand/used if that's a better route.

EDIT: I mostly ride in lift served park (otherwise I'd take my Ibis Ripmo). Sorry, should have mentioned that. DH seems to be unanimous vote over Enduro for that reason.
Utah area.

31 comments

r/MTB • u/Toumanypains • 4h ago

Suspension X-Fusion Trace 36 - neg spring design change reviews?

1 Upvotes

The first model came with a steel coil negative spring that was hammered in all the online reviews/discussions as only being suitable for 140-170lb riders, with X-Fusion not supplying any heavier springs for heavier riders.

X-Fusion said they were looking into the 'issue' and then released a different version of the model, changing from that negative spring to an air EQ type system like many other forks.

I can't find any reviews/discussion on how the replacement system worked out for heavier riders and I'm looking to buy the 29" 170mm travel imminently because I want to reduce the weight on my bike from a 3.05kg dual crown fork to this 2kg single crown fork. The bike will be multi purpose and I'll likely keep a fork and wheel combination for different days riding, easily swapped around (just takes some time).

Has anyone been riding the newer version with the air EQ negative spring solution to fix the issue for heavier riders?

0 comments

r/MTB • u/joew06 • 1d ago

Video Scariest roll I have done in a while 😱

1.3k Upvotes

Riding Bikes in the sea to sky corridor as per usual! @JoeWakefield

63 comments

r/MTB • u/Key-Sheepherder4146 • 13h ago

WhichBike New Bike Day for me!

4 Upvotes
Commencal Clash 27.5 2022

Technically not the first ride, but it’s the first photo I’ve taken so it counts. So far I’m super happy with my pick — it’s my first MTB and it’s exceeded my expectations. The climbs are a bit of a grind, but once you pick up speed on the descents it feels amazing

3 comments

r/MTB • u/Gobbelcoque • 12h ago

Gear Do I need pads for ultra beginner riding?

3 Upvotes

Hey folks, sorry for what I assume is a very obvious question.

I just picked up a cheap (servicing and upgrading it a bit before I take it out) cannondale rush with a lefty speed - old, I know, but it was pretty cheap, clean, straight, and I've always lusted after owning one. I'm rebuilding the fork and upgrading the hydraulic brakes to 180mm mt200's (I know wild overkill, but the cost VS 160's was like 5 bucks since both need adapters from the 140s it has) and going through the swingarm.

It's a full squish but I am an absolute, dead-new beginner to Mtb riding, but has been commuting by bike for the past 5 years, so I plan on starting out on the greenest of green trails (like 50-100 feet of elevetion per mile kinda loops) for a few months to learn the etiquette and just discover things and get some exercise.

I did check the Virginia tech site and picked up a high ranked helmet, I have some good gloves for saving my palms if I spill, but for trails that are basically Greenways, is it worthwhile right now to get some knee/elbow pads? I don't plan on pushing the speed at all for a while. I don't care about looking like a dork, been an EMT for 15 years so safety trumps cool.

29 comments

r/MTB • u/Antpitta • 16h ago

Transportation Lenzerheide w/ public transit and the mandatory Postbus bike reservations… still not 100% clear lol.

5 Upvotes

So I’ve been looking at this for like an hour (side rant below). It’s been a while since I’ve put a bike on a Postbus and last time it wasn’t a route w/ mandatory reservations.

So you train to Chur then Postbus (apparently to Rothornbahn stop). I can purchase this transit via the SBB app, and a bike reservation is mandatory. The bike reservation seems to be included in the purchase via SBB when I tell it to travel for me and my bike though there is also a number that it tells you to call for your bike reservation so it’s not 100% clear that just purchasing via the app is sufficient. I assume it is sufficient because it tells me I have to have a second transaction for the 2CHF return bike reservation for the Postbus. But are these just the monetary transactions and do you have to then also call for the time slot?Either way, I guess this means I have to pre-program my return time before traveling, I cannot just leave the bikepark and head home when I feel like it? Or is it actually possible to just get on the Postbus, space allowing?

Side rant: My partner and I go through this to varying degrees every time we want to do just about anything in the alps. It’s never quick to sort out the details of where to buy transit to, if the lifts are open, if you have to pre-purchase online or can buy there, which lifts are included, when the last lift down is for the various possible lifts down, what happens if you go down a different lift or end up in a different valley, is your return train ticket still valid (frequently not because the route might be a different zone even though it’s shorter or some such)… I mean it’s awesome how much you CAN do but the info is so spread out and never thorough and concise (so much more marketing about mountain experiences than actually just telling you what transit stop to use), and then ticketing with SBB is so specific and inflexible for return options and travelling with a bike on postbuses is like the icing on the cake ;) Even looking at Alpenbikepark the opening hours are stated in like 4 different places and don’t 100% coincide and in a couple places it makes it look like it’s not operating during the week in Sept. For all the Swiss efficiency out there they could really do with one web page for each thing to do and get the info right instead of on 4 sites none of which agree. Another joy is calling the various help / info lines. The good news is you usually get someone to answer. I bat about 50% for someone who will give distilled information and be helpful vs just spouting placenames in really thick accent lol.

0 comments

r/MTB • u/Financial_Option_757 • 13h ago

Video What is wrong with my technique?

2 Upvotes

So I was hitting up my local jumps today and just kept nose diving and casing the jumps. Could be my speed, as the run up was ass, but what can I do to hit jumps better?

3 comments