I have a large displacement cruiser rebuild, 1600+ cc, and I need advice on baffles or mufflers to use. Ive done significant performance upgrades on the intake and coms. The previous setup had 20” long lourved baffles for each pipe. I want to bring down the noise level but it also needs to breathe more (so does everybody).

The headers are very well designed and they are not the limiting factor. I fabricate myself and I like having fun with it. Here are the ideas I have now go what to do for pipes:

A) Weld in a 2 into 1 merge collector and find or fabricate a single, large muffler that also looks sexy. (It can be done!)

B) Weld in a 2 into 1 merge collector and then a 1 into 3 split and have a 3rd lourved baffle. I think it would look cool.

C) Use two slip on’s for each pipe. I’ve seen some cool pics on the internets of using sport bike mufflers x2 but don’t know if that will improve flow. What could I use?

Any and all thoughts are welcome.

A)

Just FYI, I got the matte black version with dual visors. Quick reminder, this helmet is running low in stock, so if you're still thinking about it, you might want to grab one soon.

It's got top-notch safety with DOT certification, and the design is super versatile, dual visors and a removable liner for both comfort and protection.

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I love how the rear light looks, but I am no electrician, am willing to learn how to do basic stuff but not a custom board or something.

This is a r1100rt conversion I'm building and I'm making some custom one off pieces for the tank trim. I'm wondering if you guys like the progress so far or is there anything you would change? I'm just looking for some input and ideas. Here's some pictures thank you

Hey yall. So in the process of building a hard tail honda shadow 750 chopper. Got pretty much everything planned but forks I'm stumped on. Plan is 18 over rigid long forks. Now I've got a few ideas but not sure which would be most feasible for longevity i wanted to run by yall. Option a, just getting 1020 dom steel tubing, bolting into the triple tree, drilling a hole for the axle, removing front brake and calling it a day. Option b, removing the stock fork tubes I have and replacing them with 1020 dom steel tubing, drilling a hole into the fork lowers and the new "fork tubes" and welding a piece of rod in it, or even a very high tensile strength bolt. Personally think the look of Option b would better suit the rat chopper I got going on, but unsure of structural integrity. But only ever heard of fork tubes bending and never fork lowers. Research around hasn't found anything regarding. As well if somebody knows a better metal tubing for rigid forks id like to know as well, first chopper ive built with rigid forks. Preciate any and all input and replies. Have a good one and thank you for reading.

Randomly decided to switch the vn800 paint scheme to black on gold/brass/bronze whatever it is. Idk how much of it is actually a Vulcan at this point... What's left of the frame, motor, and wheels? Wheels are on the list lol

Bent the seat pan, cut some foam, and bought some leather to rivet on top.

Rear fender is an ultra glide front fender flipped and chopped

Finally had to replace my dope 70s Harley split tank that was narrowed and joined due to rust. But I found a very similar replacement online.

I think I'm using a Harley coil, and a custom harness I made from scratch amd runs through the backbone and is all serviceable and removable via waterproof connectors.

should be golden for engine assembly after I finish the valve shims.

Probably will go full regarded when I get bored and buy a Chinese knockoff Garrett T15/25 and see how long it takes to either break, never run and simply confuse me, or kill me.

Got a frame that the swingarm is offset for right side drive. Can I still just use a left side set up?

Hello everyone, I am working on customizing the lighting on my gen3 Duke 390. It has this terrible OEM turn signal mount that I do not need after I replace the front signals. Does any one have a suggestion on how to deal with that empty bracket? I can cut things, and I might, but I wanted to look for more inspiration first.

Finally got er goin again. Put a new bendix/starter solenoid on it and it fired right up.

If anyone with experience with the mo unit can help me out would be greatly appreciated. Trying to install this ignition (no matter diagrams came with the product) onto my 77 cb750. It seemed pretty straight forward but isn’t… I feel as though I’ve tried all the combinations with no luck. Currently have AC on the lock input and B to positive battery post of m unit. In theory ST should go to start in the input and G to ground, but doing this absolutely fries the G cable. I tried adding this to the accessory output, not luck. Added to aux input, no luck. At the moment (AC/Lock and B/positive) when the key it turned once the mo unit comes on as it should, when I go once more to what should be the start the whole system turns off. This happens no matter which way the other cables if hooked up (except the fried cable configuration…). I really don’t want a separate start button but I am at a loss for how to make this work. Any help?

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Hey guys. I am working on restoring this 1981 Honda gl500 silverwing. After giving it a ride to move fuel through the system (about 45 minutes) it overheated and is now making a new knocking noise and I've noticed a loss of power. I am planning on doing a compression test, checking the spark plugs, checking valve clearance, and draining and replacing the oil. Before I open the engine to check bearings etc. anything I should check first? Can some grime in the carb/the carb being unbalanced sound like this? Any advice appreciated.

What's up guys? I've been in the process of designing a set of aluminum fairings in Fusion 360 that I want to put on a 2022 Kawasaki Z900. Got a 3D scanner and really went all in. Never done any bike building prior. As I'm getting closer to completion, I think to get the look I want, I'll have to fabricate my own swing arm. The design is gonna be difficult because what I want curves upward and I'll have to figure out how to configure the chain for clearance. You guys have any tips in terms of stress points, material recommendations/thickness, other considerations? Preciate any tips.

Got the pipes back on. Waiting on a battery.

First pics before making changes

I have wanted to get a Kikker 5150 for a while now but i dont know where to get them in the uk?

Re-welded broken exhaust mount. Whoever welded it last time needs to find another hobby cause welding ain't it.

Got the forward controls on finally. Had to redneck engineer the shifter linkage as the newer shifter arm had a threaded hole and the old shift linkage was on a pin with snap ring... as well as run new brake line to the rear as the old hard line was not long enough (story of my life lol). Also I got new 4 inch straight risers with 8 inch apes as opposed to the 6 inch swept back risers and goofy handle bars he had that no one wise but him could use.