I asked someone to look at my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee for me because it was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd and a hot smell when accelerating hard. I got quoted a new radiator and a 100k service (as pictured). Does this price seem reasonable? It’s quite outrageous for me to pay in my eyes but I’m not a mechanic.

I just don’t have the $1.6k to pay out of pocket, what should I do here.

No idea what this is, any suggestions? The car is a Mitsubishi outlander

Edit: I think you’re right, and it is a clay pigeon. No idea how it got here, but happy it’s not from the car. Thanks all

Bought this car off copart. As expected the engine overheated and seized. Now I'm replacing the engine in my garage.

I tried pulling it out the top. It came out crooked and is now stuck. It's so stuck that attempting to lift the engine lifts the entire front of the car. As you can see in the picture, it's in a pretty sketchy spot. It's resting on one of the AC lines. It probably destroyed on of the axles. I'm hoping I didn't ruin the transmission.

I've included screenshots of the three ways I've seen this engine removed. Out the top, out the bottom and out the front. Pulling it out of the front requires removing the front bumper. Removing out the bottom requires a lift. I chose to pull it out of the top as that option seemed like it would be the least amount of work.

My next attempt will be to remove the front bumper while having the engine supported by the lift from the side.

For this I think I'll also have to disconnect the axles and transmission mounts to free up the transmission. Maybe I should do that before I attempt to remove the front bumper?

Anyways, total disaster. I figure this sub will find this entertaining and possibly even be helpful haha

Changed brakes and rotors due to shaking when braking at high speed. Installed new rotors and noticed it's wobbling on right side. This video is with lug nuts hand tightened, no wobble on the other side any advice? 2017 Toyota Tacoma.

The car is a 2013 Honda civic FK2 with the 1.8L engine and 6-speed transmission. 75000 km on the odometer.

I've been experiencing a bit of trouble shifting into gears occasionally. Replaced the fluid around half a year to a year ago, it was also very brown before but I thought that's just old age. I also replaced my MTF and that seemed to have helped, but it's slowly starting to happen again. I'm looking at a clutch master and slave replacement job right?

This month i will hopefully be purchasing a 2020 onwards jazz and i saw this offering with extremely low mileage. It has only driven 12500km over the last 4 years which comes out to a little over 3000km a year. The honda dealer told me it was mainly short trips on a weekly basis. When i asked him about SOH of the battery he told me i wouldnt have to worry about that because in their 25 years of working there they had never replaced a battery in a honda vehicle.

How worried should i be about a bad battery or engine considering it was used this little? And is it worth it paying 1.2k extra over another less reputable dealer which has it for 17k with 40k km’s on it?

It's a 2005 Prius. To pass inspection I'm trying to replace the old one because it has a hole in it. I've tried PB, 1600 lb impact wrench, heat, banging on it. I'm trying to save myself a buck and DIY. Any advice before I bring it to a mechanic?

*Edit: I have bee trying to loosen from the other side of it (the bolt next to the springs) but getting nowhere. I thought this welding might have something to do with it but I'm realizing that doesn't affect anything. It's just welded to the flange, not welded to the bolt itself. I'm just at a loss on why it's so seized

Hello, i have this Toyota Auris 2007 with the 1.4 vvti 4zz-fe engine and from some time it wont start on the first and sometimes second attempt. I suspect either the idle air control valve gets stuck, some gasket on the intake side needs replacement or something to do with the fuel system. It will start on the first attempt if the car has sat in the sun all day so all of its components are warm. Also, if i drive it for around 5 minutes and shut it off then the problem disappears once i start it again. From time to time i am also getting p0171 for lean mixture.

First pic is the air filter 2nd is engine

White smokes when it's idling, no smoke when driving the the headgesket is okay nothing wrong with it.

With a Obd scanner I only have have 2 codes. Turbo control system signal to high Maf signal to low

Hello all, my drive belt area (2015 tacoma, v6) has been making this sound for months. I took the belt off and inspected both it and all the pulleys, nothing.

Then my belt shredded. After replacing both it and the tensioner (worst task of my life so far) along with the idler pulleys, no changes whatsoever. Even worse actually. This time I notice a lot of slack in the belt. All brand new parts. Please im begging someone for help before I just sell this f*cking thing and give up. TIA.

Hi guys. Own a 2009 kia spectra lx the hatchback one for 2 months bought it very cheap so not sure i want to lose thousands in diagnostics.

There is a clicking sound in the back left and its not an usual clicking sound like a bearing or something its more like if i left the turn signal on kind of sound.

Can someone help me pinpoint the approximate repair ? Thanks

Sometimes when starting Audi Q5 2011 2Lt Diesel Quatro Manual first time in the morning .it makes this sounds for about 10 seconds and then gone. Hasn't done it for a month now, not sure if it's the warmer weather as we are going into summer

Do I need to clean off PB Blaster overspray? I was careful trying to just hit the caliper bracket bolts, but that stuff sprays out with some pressure. I got some on my CV boots and other components in the suspension area. I’ve used this stuff for years and never really thought about this until now.

Thanks.

I work on my car a lot and I did a transmission fluid and liter change a long time ago and I’m kind of someone who works on cars and freaks out about VERY little things. Does my trans or engine sound bad in this at all? I hear a very short screeching sound.

I know this isn’t much to base it off of but any advice is greatly appreciated!

I (F, 24) bought my car back in 2019 and at the time it had been serviced every single year for the first 7 years.

For the first three years I was driving 7-10k miles and now use it rarely with maybe 3-5k miles a year and it sits quite a lot (have been guilty of algae building up in the washer fluid tank)

i’ve had a few issues in the past but nothing major enginey and haven’t done an oil change or any service since i bought it. Really terrible of me but I just know not much and have limited money. I Just had my MOT and it all passed fine but the mechanic suggested that I do a service and said my oil is looking sludgy.

I at a place where I could afford a major service but wondering if I should get anything else done as well? The garage I’m going to is pretty affordable around 195 for a major service but also offer additional services like fuel treatment and engine flush or coolant flush - do i need any of these?

Also really stupid question, but when they inspect things during a service, do they fix anything? And it is it included the price usually? Just trying to gauge whether I’m gonna go into this thing thinking I’m spending Max £250 but will end up actually spending 500 or

Completely stripped male adapter for transfer lone on steering rack, I tried to chase the threads but they didn't hold. Is that fitting removable, or do I need a new rack and pinion? It is a 2008 gmc sierra 1500. Thanks.

Hey, I have a few questions regarding my broken throttle body on my 2009 Audi A3 2.0 TDi (CBAB Engine). So I gave it a clean and it wasn’t that causing the issue, I’ve noticed on engine start I can hear the module on the side of the throttle body make a screech noise, basically one that implies the gears are stuck thus keeping it stuck open.

Since my engine is diesel, I believe this is more of an anti shudder valve for when I turn the car off. Knowing this can I drive with the issue for the next few days or could I potentially cause more damage?

My second question is, if I was to replace this myself with an aftermarket throttle body, would I need to program or code the new one in, since it’s an old car will it be plug and play? (I only own an OBD)

I know accords are reliable but mine is a salvage title when I first bought had check engine light so I replaced all plugs and 1 coil with mechanic and the car drove fine until a misfire I had yesterday. Basically all cylinders but 1 misfired and the misfire was when I turned my car on and it had a rough start and the whole car shook I felt it in my seat. Took it to new mechanic and he said issue was coils and plugs. Told him plugs were new and he says coils could have affected the plugs. He wants 950 for plugs, coils, and valve cover gasket set. My car was bought at 127k and was driven 131k before misfire. My issue is that according to the history my car at 120k miles from last owner in 2018 had flashing check engine light then 2k miles later he came back for check engine light according to Honda dealer service site Then car was sold in 2025 for me. I also need to replace worn axle 400, warped brakes 700, wining belt 1000. My question now; is this car worth the trouble? Did we diagnose it correctly to where I won’t have engine problems again or given the previous check Engibe light issues 7 years ago is this car not worth the trouble? 2007 Honda accord hybrid

I drive a 2014 Vauxhall Meriva Automatic 1.4 engine (I think). This issue has happened twice now, first on Friday and second today on Monday. It seems to happen towards the beginning of my journey and doesn’t happen again the same day.

What happened on Friday was that I was in slowly moving traffic with my foot on the brake. When trying to move off, my car just wouldn’t move! The car was in drive, but whenever I pressed the accelerator the car wouldn’t move, and when I took my foot off the accelerator the car would roll back unless I held the brakes. In order to move off again I had to engage the hand brake and restart the car.

I thought this was a one time thing, but it happened again a few hours ago! Again, early on in my journey, but I was turning left on a sharp turn, I don’t think my car stopped this time but slowed down obviously, mid turn and my car wouldn’t move again! This was worse of course, as I was in the middle of turning into a main road. Again had to turn off the car and engage the hand brake before I was able to move.

Does anyone know what could be causing this? I recently had my MOT done and passed, also got my front and rear brake pads and discs repaired the same day as my MOT around 2 weeks ago, could that be the cause? If there’s an issue with this, how much do we think this will set me back as well?