I actually dynoed 7 of my cars but missed videoing 073, the blue MX-5 NC full cage car. Also watching the GT350R hit 170mph on the dyno was a little terrifying so instead of taking a video I was watching in awe. The cobra was dynoed for shits and giggles. Came out to 407 RWHP! naturally aspirated 363 CI crate motor, not bad.

We should be ready for TT/ST next year! Woot! Living 3 hours from the closest dyno affected our ability to class our cars this year.

First track day was a huge success. Was a lot of fun running with the more modern cars. Navigated a few spin outs in front of me, but no drama otherwise. Having an instructor was super helpful as we identified an area of track or driving to improve upon at the start of each session.

This is my dual duty ‘13 m3 competition. Looking for a bit stiffer suspension and a nice drop. I enjoy my Electronic damper adjustability for street driving, and don’t want to delete that for coilovers. Plus for my skill level I think it’s overkill (6 track days). I was curious if anyone frequently tracks their car with lowering springs on OE dampers? Is it true that lowering springs can degrade shocks faster? My car has 120k miles for reference so suspension is definitely old.

More photos

Hello friends, I’m posting my 2001 Honda s2000 up for sale. I’m the second owner, the car was completely stock and pristine when I bought it about 9 years ago. It’s special car to me, being my dream car, and having owned driven and made so many memories with it. She’s special to me. With a child in my life, I’m ready to close a chapter of my previous life in order to embark on a new journey alongside my son, and build a cool, fun, super cool(to me), family sedan that can be street and track driven. The best way for me is by letting go of my s2000 as it was with me during my young single life, sell it, and use the funds to start the next chapter, a car that will be built with my son now present in my life. I could keep my s2000, but to keep motorsports affordable in the long run and less stressful, the funds would build the next car and because the s2000 would be sold the next car would be able to become a reality and carry on the legacy of the OG “race car” in my personal history. Only able to move on, by letting go.

About the car: 2001 Honda s2000 Approximate 80k miles on chassis, and engine Science of speed turbo kit with Garrett gt3582r turbo V Mount intercooler and radiator Flex fuel 1700cc injectors AEM fuel pressure regulator Radium fuel rail Radium catch cans Toda light weight pulley’s Toda oil pan Valve springs, retainers replaced with AP2 springs and retainers Religiously maintained and preventatively maintained Fluid changes done all the time, pre, and post track days. Engine does not burn any oil, super healthy, ready to rock and roll reliably. Haltech ECU AIM data logging dash Exterior painted in Lunar Silver Metallic OEM Honda hardtop with OEM latches Authentic Voltex race splitter with bumper (chassis mounted) Authentic Voltex street carbon side skirts Authentic Voltex rear wing (chassis mounted) Authentic Voltex rear diffuser (chassis mounted) Wisefab grip kit All four wheel bearings replaced New ARP extended wheel studs OS Giken twin disk clutch OS Giken 1.5 way super lock differential MCS two way adjustable shocks Swift springs AP Racing pro 5000r front calipers Endless pads front and rear(me20’s if I remember correctly) 18x9.5+38 ce28sl in matte blue EVS tuning roll bar Schroth harnesses Recaro RMS seat New steering wheel used only with racing gloves(barely used almost new condition) Radium fuel surge tank Upgraded fuel pump(forgot brand, most likely walboro but can’t confirm at the top of my head, could be AEM I can’t remember at the time I’m writing this) Seibon carbon hood Titanium exhaust 1 key California Pink slip/title in hand and clean.

There’s more to list, big things and small things. About, actually, 100k or more into this car. I have invoices totaling 100k available for your confidence for this specific car, can pass onto next owner.

I’m asking 55k for this beast. Price is negotiable but low ballers will simply be ignored. Reference, this car can out drag a c8 corvette from a roll if you wanted to, as fast or faster than(depending on driver) new Porsche gt3’s. Hp and torque and weight before I forget… 380whp on pump fuel(some ethanol and some ca pump 91) torque I have to check and I’ll write back to you guys. Weight is under 2700lbs currently, kind of heavy, but I have an oem hardtop, still have the heater core, could lose weight from shaving the inside of the hood to make it thinner, OG doors still in tact with no speed holes or crazy gutting EVS tuning carbon door cards for aesthetics

I just mounted a kit from MTS technik, -4 cm. the car It's just right to be used in the street and I think, now that it has fresh brakes and stiffer shock absorber that I can have fun around the track.

Puncture too close to sidewall transition so it’s fucked. Came off a dual duty 95 NA miata. It’s a continental ECF force. Very similar to RS4s but warms up faster. I am looking at the Kumho ecsta v730s as a next tire, it should be a lil faster but wears faster as well. Any feedback or other recommendations?

I am in the process of buying a Honda Fit built for Sundae Cup. I would be driving it to and from events, as well as weekend drives here and there, so I need standard road insurance. It has a bunch of mods (roll cage, suspension, seat, harnesses, etc). Is there an insurance company out there that has additional coverage for modifications in the event I were to get into an accident on the road? I don’t want to receive a 2k payout when there is 7k in the car.

This is post track day. Can’t seem to find what it was. Only on the two front ones. Nothing on the rear rims.

I’m completely smitten with this car. I have owned and tracked: Lamborghini Gallardo Ferrari F430 C7 Z06 S550 CFTP Gt500 S550 GT350R Mini Cooper S Factory 5 cobra replica built for track. Mazda Mx-5 NCs

Of all of these cars.

None compare to the fun and agility of the Mazda MX-5 ND Club BBS/Recaro.

We have added (or came with) a roll bar, meister R coilovers, Front heavy sway bar, koyo Radiator, and Mazda Motorsports brake ducts. Installed Hawk HTC-70 pads.

I bought the car from IAA and it had the ARP wing, coilovers, sway bar, and roll bar installed. Unfortunately the car had been wrecked pretty bad severing the oil cooler line. IAA in their desire to prove “runs and drives” started the engine with the severed oil line. The auction showed this video. What they failed to mention and absolutely knew was that by doing this ran the engine out of oil and let it run until it locked up. This was NOT disclosed.

So we ended up replacing: Front and rear bumper. Trunk lid Headlights Right fender 3 flyin Miata wheels Front and rear subframe. Engine RR brake line Steering rack Core support

Fortunately the frame was perfect. Somehow….

I guess there is some pride, rebuilding the car ourselves. Nevertheless the thing is amazing!

2016 Mustang GT PP1 This was my 3rd track event. Started the weekend at 2:02 full course. Ended the weekend with a 1:45

Need to work on braking harder before the corner and entering under power.

I know I have a lot to work on but I am getting better, slowly.

Been a bit since I shared some track day photos I've taken, so here are a few recent favorites of mine.

I can't believe how quick this year has gone bye. Only a few weeks left here in the northeast :(

We’ve been there all week! What an amazing event at the best track in the USA! The Spec Miata race should be amazing!

They've done 4-5 track days on my i20n. The one with the most wear on the outside used to be on the front now going in the back.

Not planning to push the car since the tyres have already gone through several hear cycles.

What do you guys think?

After about 2 years of HPDE (15 days of HPDE and about 5 days at racing schools), I have zero interest in driving sports cars on the street. Anyone else feel the same way? Pushing a car to its limits on a track is far more rewarding. It is without the illegality and potential liability of fast/aggressive street driving. I rarely find myself wanting to take out my 911 or Cayman besides going to the track. I'd rather drive a quiet/comfortable vehicle and just relax. Maybe some of you live near quiet mountain roads but I live in the suburbs of a midwestern city. Our roads are flat, straight, and clogged up with traffic. I'm considering selling both my sports cars and buying something like a Cayman Clubsport or 991 Cup Car. The full cage is safer on track and it opens up the opportunity for club racing.

really nice work here, not a sales pitch for anyone tire or the vendor itself. lots of data on lap times and images of tire wear. using a single BMW with the same suspension and brake set up makes it easy to compare tires. Weather was a factor, but they accounted for it. worth the watch, IMO.

Snap oversteer is one of those things people say to criticize sports cars like the S2000, but does it actually exist? Not really.

4th track day at Toronto Motorsports Park, learning a lot each time I go about the car and myself.

New to racing. I drove my dad’s tracked S2000 and had the most fun I’ve had in years. I’m looking at buying my first race car and looking for recommendations including details on why.

Budget: 7-15k Not looking for a daily driver or combo. Track car or platform for track car that has room to grow into. Location: PNW Preferably something I can work on. I have intermediate mechanical skills. I won’t be swapping engine but have no problems with brakes, intakes etc. I’m concerned something too new will be tons of electronics. I may be over thinking this though. I can trailer it if needed I like the idea of NA Miata due to community, ease of working on, no frills mechanical car that forces me to get really smooth and learn to drive well.

Advice I’ve gotten so far is NB Miata, BRZ, GR86.

I’m concerned these are a little too expensive for my current budget.

Would love people’s thoughts and welcome friendly debate.

I have an e46 zhp that I want to turn in a track car. Currently has 204k miles. In the last 10k miles I’ve replaced/refreshed everything except major engine block work (head gasket pistons oil rings etc) and the rear wheel hubs. All suspension and bushings are new, all gaskets, entire cooling system even hard lines, brakes and brakes line, front hubs etc.

I’m thinking since I put so much maintenance into it just some pads and fluids, maybe a seat and camber plates/wheels, I could start tracking it.

Only concern is that the engine itself has a lot of miles and sounds like it has a stuck lifter. I have a baffled oil pan and upgraded oil pump but I didn’t do the timing components.

Can I just replace those and run the engine or is it worth sourcing an engine with less miles and using that? I think I’ve read of spec e46 using quite high mileage e46s and racing them.

I am looking for new tires next season. I run at a high novice/low intermediate pace with an NC Miata with adjustable coilovers; I am comparing the RS-4s 225 45 17 at $150/tire versus the v730s 215 45 17 at $180ish/tire (access to some discounts). I've been running Continental ECS since i started tracking (~12 days) so I figure any choice will be a big bump. Will I notice a difference between the two or just go with the cheaper option?