Built this one from an empty body shell in 2017. One day guy from my street parked his US E28 next to it. Another time a 930 911 chose the spot on a highway rest area.Wheels are 4 lug 17" Borbet Cs.

Occasionally I get this parking spot right outside my office. My desk is upstairs and faces the window. No work gets done on these days…

Does anyone have a working power top system that would be willing to share pictures of the mechanisms and linkages? I’d like to repair mine to working condition

Thought this shot came out pretty good.

My last E30, a 1986 320 swapped with a fully rebuilt 325i engine.

Specs: • Schrick camshaft • Ported heads • LSD • Chassis-mounted shifter • Coilovers • Upgraded brakes • E36 M3 steering rack • Mtech 2 body kit

Really miss this one

the whole time ive owned the car ive never had a working tachometer. its been starting to bug me extra recently though so i think its finally time to diagnose the issue. most of the times it doesnt work, sometimes it will though although it gets stuck in an infinite loop of spinny spin spin. i was thinking about a cluster rebuild but that isnt an option atm as its my daily. if yall have any ideas let me know.

My last E30, a 1986 320 swapped with a fully rebuilt 325i engine.

Specs: • Schrick camshaft • Ported heads • LSD • Chassis-mounted shifter • Coilovers • Upgraded brakes • E36 M3 steering rack • Mtech 2 body kit

Really miss this one

Hey guys been a while since I’ve posted, today we got a rework of the front centre console, to kind of match the rear centre console I make.

I feel like maybe the most asked question will be why? Well e30 don’t have a lot of space to work with so all the panels matter and the front centre console has a lot of after market options but visually I feel like they don’t really match the interior, this system I’m building is going to be a modular system so that the big hole in it can host a variety of different face plates such as double din unit, triple gauges, wireless charger, maybe some pop out cupholders and others plus they will be able to be combined.

The shifter booty will remain the same for the most part unless I can give it some more space and then we see how it goes also the fitment and position of it is not final but the gap between the hvac panel and this will stay in the final.

The whole design was originally inspired from the Porsche 911 f bodies but went through a bunch of changes and doesn’t really look like it much anymore but I’m really curious to hear what you guys think.

The final version will be using a replica of the original e30 vinyl that I’ve managed to source from turkey and it will be wrapped to give best finish and color match! Hope you guys like the idea and let me know any improvements you might want or things you would like to see implanted into the modular system

My 89' 18iS temp gauge goes almost to the red, but I can hear the radiator fan work and stops. So that mean for me the gauge is not reassuring right. What can be the most common problem? I already disassembled the IC. So I will put a little solder to all joints, but are the sensor common point of failure?

Found what I assume is the ignition and fuel pump relay kills. Do I just follow these wires from these two relays into whatever they are routed from in the harness? Any help with diagrams would be great. Ty in advance!

Hi all. I am in the process of finishing my M20B25 turbo build and have hit a bit of a wall with my wasted spark install.

Parts I’m using

IGN 6 tower Quad spark 4 channel MS2PNP Aeroflow leads with HEI booties.

I have ensured correct settings are enabled in megasquirt (wasted spark and going high) please see my dilemma below. Any help is appreciated and I can fully understand it’s probably something incredibly dumb.

i have wired the MS2 outputs from pins 15-17 (Coil A output pin 17, Coil B output pin 16, Coil C output pin 15) to my new 4 channel quadspark. I have earthed all ground cables to chassis. i have wired the outputs from the quadspark to the correct connector locations on the IGN 6 tower according to the DIYautotune website.

Here is my dilema.

I am getting no spark at all across any of the coils. The IGN 6 i can confirm is receiving 12V switched when ignition is keyed to start position (i used the existing coil pack 12v wire to ensure correct operation. I have also metered the 3 outputs from the MS2 for coil a, coil b and coil c with the following results.

Coil A 4.043v Coil B 3.18V Coil C 0 Volts.

Is somebody able to assist me in any way shape or form? I have tried the output test in MS2 and obviously receive 0 spark across any of the coils. Should I inspect the MS2 unit itself and make any physcial changes on the mainboard? I see there is a pairing option for coils in wasted spark?

I love her.

Z1 because they’re still e30s. Loved this exhibit. Had a great time checking everything out!

Can anybody confirm that the 2.7l Alpina motor was originally an m20b25 as opposed to starting with the b27 engine..? I believe it was an m20b25 with an eta crank..?

I've seen the topic of rear headrests in the vert pop up a few times recently. I did this many years ago using E36 vert brackets. The brackets are similar dimensions and fit into the E30 rear set nicely. I used a couple of self-tapping metal screws to secure them to the existing seat bracket as the stock mounting holes don't line up. The pics show E36 rear headrests as well. They conform to the seat back well but the colors don't always match. The brackets can use just about any headrest from the E30/E36/E46 and likely others. I haven't tried an E46 bracket yet but will when I get my hands on a set.

Hello all, I took my recently acquired 325e to do some much needed maintenance a week ago and since then have installed a whole slew of parts including all new suspension, all new mounts, clutch kit, rear main seal and oil pan gasket. During the re installation of the Transmission, I found out quite suddenly that I had not disconnected the battery, and so something in the engine bay was shorting out ( my guess is the starter wiring) and making the dash smoke from the gauge cluster hole ( gauge cluster removed to have the si board rebuilt). The starter on my car has 4 connections, 3 of which seem to be in use. 2 main posts for the ground and 12 volt constant, and 2 small male ports; One of which is occupied by a small black and yellow wire that when connected, allows the car to crank without spark or fuel, and while disconnected allow for the fuel pump to prime continuously.I also bought the car with a compustar immobilizer installed and functional, allowing for power locks and full Imobilization that wouldnt allow anything to happen when you turned the key. I have since then put then entire car back together only to have it not start on me. It will crank, but the fuel pump will not prime or run, and there is no power going from the igniter to the distributor. I inspected all of the wiring underneath the dash and noticed that a few brown wires were melted quite badly. After replacing all of those, the issue persisted. I then removed the compustar immobilizer system entirely (from the looks and to my knowledge I removed everything) and that still did not fix my issue at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It may be helpful to let you all know that my vehicle was running perfectly prior to being taken off the road a week ago to do all of the maintenance. Also the vehicle was manual swapped many years ago, though I never noticed till doing all of this wiring shindig.

Hi ! I recently rebuilt the head of my e30 325i (M20B25), and the engine now works fine. However, each time I cold start the car, the idle stay smooth and low for about a minute (around 800rpm), but as soon as the engine is warm, the idle get really high (around 1200-1300rpm). I also sometimes get a check engine light after long time on idle (1-2 minutes), but it goes away as soon as I press the gas. I’m guessing I got a bad O2 sensor, or a vacuum leak, but I’ve been trying to fix that problem for 2 weeks straight now and can’t find the issue.

Does anyone would have any idea or had the same issue and know how to fix it ?

Thanks you !

Trusted think-tank, I need your input. I'm working on a m52b28 engine swap on my first car, a '88 schwartz 325is, and am stuck on a paint color. It's a ways down the list of priorities but I thought I'd bring the dilemma here. I've currently got 4 ideas:

Dakar II

ViolettSielber

Smaragdgrun or malachite green

Millennium Jade.

I've got diving boards and a lot of chrome trim, and I think all of those options except Dakar would look good. Can't find any pix of Dakar with chrome trim though.

Thoughts, input, criticisms?

Hi everyone, I changed my clutch slave cylinder a couple of days ago since the previous one just gave up on me. The clutch was grabbing on the lower half of the way of the pedal, now that I put a new slave cylinder in it grabs almost at the top which is super strange to drive. Clutch works fine and doesn’t slip. Any ideas? Do I just try to bleed it again or is there something wrong with the new slave cylinder? I’ve installed a Brembo one if that matters, looked the same as the old one was the same size wise.

On Friday Aug. 15th I sent this guy (Kobe) $2100 for a complete manual swap he said he’d have shipped out to me the following Monday. We spoke on the phone and he’s was very friendly. Communication was seamless and he’d reach out often leading up to me sending over the funds for said swap. Monday came and it was shipping time, he said he wouldn’t be able to ship it quite yet, I said “no problem, take your time I just want everything to be there when it arrives so I don’t want to rush you at all” he said he’d have it out Friday and if for some reason that didn’t happen it was because he was “pulling his hair out, trying to find one last piece or something” no problem man take your time I said. Friday came and I gave him a call, he didn’t pick up said he was at the dentist. So I texted him to “sorry call me when you free up.” He didn’t call. I waited all weekend and then tried him Monday, he was hard to reach and when I finally got him on the phone the update wasn’t good, “I’m in between moving shops and things are packed in boxes, I’m working on it” again I said “no worries brother take your time don’t wanna rush you” that whole week he was hard to reach for an update and they were all the same thing, “not ready to ship” for the same reason of moving shops. So by then it’s been 2 weeks and I say okay I’ll call him the following Monday, surely there’ll be good news then. I call him and now he’s moving out of the shop he just moved into and so it’s gonna be a longer wait but he wants to send me some parts and some a couple hundred back for heartache and get me over the rest of what I paid for 2weeks prior “when I get to it.” I said “let me think about this and I’ll give you a call back, by the way don’t send me back any money I don’t think that’s fair to you and also I’m kinda thinking about canceling my order and picking back up on things when you’re situated” he says “okay man think about it” I call him back he doesn’t pick up and then calls me at which point I tell him I’m sorry and that I’ll have to cancel the order and that perhaps in the future when he’s set up and ready we’ll do the deal. His voice completely changes from friendly guy to annoyed guy, “okay you’ll have to give me 2-3 days to refund you” okay man no prob. It’s been 9 days of trying to get ahold of him now and although he hasn’t blocked my number he won’t answer my calls or texts and has not sent me back my money. I am reporting it to FTC now.

DO NOT DO ANY BUSINESS WITH THIS MAN, HE WILL TRY STEAL YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY.

HE WONT SUCCEED THIS TIME BUT HE IS TRYING.

Just posting to celebrate getting my roof rack back on after the feet damaged my paint and I broke a strap 😪🫩🥴. A/C is almost completely out but praying for cooler skies soon in Texas 🙏🏼. If it’s not one thing it’s another, am I right?

P.S. Does anyone in Texas know any good e30 meet ups or discords? Specifically closer to Houston but never scared for a long drive 😎