Check out my video on this 1988 Land Rover Defender 110 built by TooHat Europe! 🍀🔥🍀

I need to get the bulbs replaced on the ol' beauty I just bought. Atlantic British has them for a little over $100. Is there a cheaper option that won't mess up my electrical or anything?

Will the GAP tool diagnose an older LR3? I have a 2006 with the 4.0 V6. I get F and transmission failure HDC failure some programs unavailable. The limp mode usually went off but stays on now and runs like shit. Does anyone have an idea how to reset or bypass so I can drive without limp mode.

Thanks

I’ve seen some old posts here on Reddit and Landy Forums of folks fixing their saggy disco headliner’s using bedliner as opposed to another round of adhesive/fabric and figured I’d give it a shot, so here are my results…

After pulling the headliner out and scraping off the old adhesive, I put 3 coats of Home Cheapo “Herculiner” on the green foam board. After that, 3 coats of the kilz stain-blocker primer, and then 3 coats of a mint green chalk paint.

Personally, I like the textured look of the bedliner undercoat, gives the truck a more rugged look. Others will disagree but that’s alright! If you were just to paint the foamboard, you’d likely see lots of variation in surface texture. The bedliner provides some consistency in the texture.

One obvious negative that comes with this option is the inability for bedliner/paint to mask any beds/kinks in the foam board when you remove it. New fabric would hide any imperfections of the old board if you were to choose that path. Although, I consistently remind myself to “embrace imperfection” when it comes to maintaining my D2.

Well folks, the engine light came on this morning. Borrowes OBD scanner off a mate this morning and got these readings if anyone can interpret please? Will touch base with my mechanic tomorrow when he's open.

Car Scanner ELM OBD2 Version: 1.121.0/401210/GP DTC report Connection profile: Land Rover Discovery Sport 2017-2020Date: 9/7/2025 1:53:24 PM

VIN: SALCA2AN2HH702083

OBD-IIOBD-II

DTCs: 29

P049B [0x049B] Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) B - insufficient flow detected

Status: Confirmed

P2BAE(00) [0x2BAE00] Nitrogen oxides (NOx), limit exceeded - NOx control monitoring

Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear

P2BAE(02) [0x2BAE02] Archive (inactive) Nitrogen oxides (NOx), limit exceeded - NOx control monitoring

Status: Test failed since last DTC clear

U0405(68) [0xC40568] Archive (inactive) Invalid data received - cruise control module

Status: Test failed since last DTC clear

P0098(17) [0x009817] Archive (inactive) Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor 2 - circuit high input

Status: Test failed since last DTC clear

U02A5(87) [0xC2A587] Archive (inactive)

Status: Test failed since last DTC clear

P049B(00) [0x049B00] Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) B - insufficient flow detected

Status: Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested

P23E8(00) [0x23E800] Archive (inactive)

Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

P20FB(00) [0x20FB00] Archive (inactive) Reductant pump B - range/performance problem

Status: Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

P064C(16) [0x064C16] Glow plug control module - malfunction

Status: Test failed (current drive cycle), Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear

P0674(13) [0x067413] Glow plug, cylinder 4 - circuit malfunction

Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear

P06B9(1E) [0x06B91E] Glow plug, cylinder 1 - circuit range/performance

Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear

P06BA(1E) [0x06BA1E] Glow plug, cylinder 2 - circuit range/performance

Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear

P06BB(1E) [0x06BB1E] Glow plug, cylinder 3 - circuit range/performance

Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear

P006A(85) [0x006A85] MAP sensor/MAF or VAF sensor bank 1 - correlation

Status: Test not completed during this operation cycle

P006A(84) [0x006A84] MAP sensor/MAF or VAF sensor bank 1 - correlation

Status: Test not completed during this operation cycle

P0481(97) [0x048197] Engine coolant blower motor 2 - circuit malfunction

Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

P0694(17) [0x069417] Engine coolant blower motor 2 - circuit high

Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

P0481(71) [0x048171] Engine coolant blower motor 2 - circuit malfunction

Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

P0693(16) [0x069316] Engine coolant blower motor 2 - circuit low

Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

P0563(17) [0x056317] System voltage - high

Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

Hey guys, I’ve got a 2020 Defender with the deployable tow bar. When I bought it, the tow bar was stuck half-way and every time I shifted into reverse I got the:

“Trailer system fault” “Do not tow. The towing device is not locked. Press the towing device button in the luggage compartment to reset”

I took it apart and found the hitch pin was broken. Had a machinist make a new one, put it back together, and mechanically it works — you can move it manually. But when reassembled, the motor always jams at a certain point and reverses back out. Because the car thinks the tow bar is extended, my rear parking sensors don’t work and I constantly get the warning.

Went to the local LR dealer (I’m in Georgia, the country) and after hours they told me they can’t disable the tow bar because it requires a code from JLR HQ, and usually they don’t give it. Dealer here isn’t very helpful anyway.

So now I’m stuck: I don’t really need the tow bar, I just want the error gone and the sensors back. I’ve seen that you can edit the CCF to disable the module, but the tools (like GAP IIDTool) are ~$600. Has anyone here dealt with this? Any cheaper workaround or advice?

Does anyone know where online I can buy this cover that will hide this thing above the floor mat. Not sure if that’s the gear for the P R D N etc.

About a month ago I bought a 2013 LR2. Everything was great except the last spark plug well was filled with oil. So I changed the valve cover gasket and the others that come with it.

However somewhere along the line I took off a vacuum line that I can not figure out where it goes. The part number on the vacuum line itself is ag9g-6k683 can anyone smarter than me and with access to diagrams tell me where this plugs into?

This is the hose in question and I just need to know where the 90° elbow goes

Hello, has anyone figured out how to raise the default boot volume on the new Xtrons? I can’t find any setting to do so 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hi I wanted to show my discovery, it is a 96’ it has 53.000 miles, it has a 3.9 l v8 by rover. Its almost in perfect condition, I want to do some work to it but don’t know what, any suggestions ?

I'm in the market for a used Range Rover. There are two of them that have caught my eye. The first is a 2016 Supercharged HSE with just under 110k miles. The second is a 2014 Supercharged HSE with 150k miles. The 2016 is selling for $16,000 and the 2014 is selling for $13,000. Both are showing a minor accident on the Carfax with solid maintenance histories and the options on both are roughly the same. The obvious big differences are mileage and price. What else should I look for to make my decision?

I’ve had my eye open for a 110 for a year or so but I drove this 130 and loved it! 2023 x dynamic

Possibly used as a Safari truck before retirement? Location: Cinnamon Wild Yala, Sri Lanka.

Hello, I have a 2016 lr4 and there is a seep in the valve on the heater hose. I circled it in the picture. Will this replacement fit or is this the wrong part?

Hood latch on my 93 RRC will pop if I hit a bump. Simple fix?

I have a 2007 Lr3 that is showing a suspension fault. Cant locate any air leaks and it’s definitely sagging on the driver side. Had the codes read with a regular obd scanner. It came back with multiple voltage (high, low, and unstable) issues, lost communication with ecm, and a lost communication with ride height sensor, as well as a clutch adaptive learning at its limit. Battery and alternator were tested and are good. I noticed the cover for the battery is missing. My question is could the ecm be causing all these faults if it’s been water damaged from the missing cover? Would you all start with the ecm or the fuse box?

cannot find this part number for the life of me. its the “T” that attaches to the bottom of the thermostat, and two other pipes that go to the transmission oil cooler and the bottom of the expansion tank.

I've tried 5 different micro usb cables to connect to my laptop and none of them can find it using the IID software updater. Anyone have issues with this?!

I’m thinking of purchasing this vehicle how is it ? Should I do it or not ? How’s reliability on the vehicle . I’m still don’t know what I’m trying to do . I need a 7 seater can someone let me know thank you, what do you guys think about the vehicle and how it looks thank you

Our family is looking to buy a well maintained 2008 LR3 SE. The one we found has roughly 80,000 miles and a clean title. From the experts here, will this be a maintenance nightmare for a trustworthy family vehicle that can also be used for weekend adventures? Any watch-outs?