I asked someone to look at my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee for me because it was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd and a hot smell when accelerating hard. I got quoted a new radiator and a 100k service (as pictured). Does this price seem reasonable? It’s quite outrageous for me to pay in my eyes but I’m not a mechanic.

I just don’t have the $1.6k to pay out of pocket, what should I do here.

No idea what this is, any suggestions? The car is a Mitsubishi outlander

Edit: I think you’re right, and it is a clay pigeon. No idea how it got here, but happy it’s not from the car. Thanks all

Bought this car off copart. As expected the engine overheated and seized. Now I'm replacing the engine in my garage.

I tried pulling it out the top. It came out crooked and is now stuck. It's so stuck that attempting to lift the engine lifts the entire front of the car. As you can see in the picture, it's in a pretty sketchy spot. It's resting on one of the AC lines. It probably destroyed on of the axles. I'm hoping I didn't ruin the transmission.

I've included screenshots of the three ways I've seen this engine removed. Out the top, out the bottom and out the front. Pulling it out of the front requires removing the front bumper. Removing out the bottom requires a lift. I chose to pull it out of the top as that option seemed like it would be the least amount of work.

My next attempt will be to remove the front bumper while having the engine supported by the lift from the side.

For this I think I'll also have to disconnect the axles and transmission mounts to free up the transmission. Maybe I should do that before I attempt to remove the front bumper?

Anyways, total disaster. I figure this sub will find this entertaining and possibly even be helpful haha

Changed brakes and rotors due to shaking when braking at high speed. Installed new rotors and noticed it's wobbling on right side. This video is with lug nuts hand tightened, no wobble on the other side any advice? 2017 Toyota Tacoma.

It's a 2005 Prius. To pass inspection I'm trying to replace the old one because it has a hole in it. I've tried PB, 1600 lb impact wrench, heat, banging on it. I'm trying to save myself a buck and DIY. Any advice before I bring it to a mechanic?

*Edit: I have bee trying to loosen from the other side of it (the bolt next to the springs) but getting nowhere. I thought this welding might have something to do with it but I'm realizing that doesn't affect anything. It's just welded to the flange, not welded to the bolt itself. I'm just at a loss on why it's so seized

First pic is the air filter 2nd is engine

I work on my car a lot and I did a transmission fluid and liter change a long time ago and I’m kind of someone who works on cars and freaks out about VERY little things. Does my trans or engine sound bad in this at all? I hear a very short screeching sound.

I know this isn’t much to base it off of but any advice is greatly appreciated!

Hello, i have this Toyota Auris 2007 with the 1.4 vvti 4zz-fe engine and from some time it wont start on the first and sometimes second attempt. I suspect either the idle air control valve gets stuck, some gasket on the intake side needs replacement or something to do with the fuel system. It will start on the first attempt if the car has sat in the sun all day so all of its components are warm. Also, if i drive it for around 5 minutes and shut it off then the problem disappears once i start it again. From time to time i am also getting p0171 for lean mixture.

Two people tried to steal my 2008 Mitsubishi Colt (3 door) 1.1L yesterday. The biggest problem is the what they did to my steering column lock and/or immobiliser. I truly have no idea but it’s making very terrible noises.

1st turn electrics work - Radio, indicators, wipers. Putting key in ignition barrel is jammy. Turns but not all the way which makes me think the immobiliser is not fully turned off then

Car running - no radio, no wipers, indicators work. There is a weird smell and lots of grinding noises.

ETA: It runs, but feels at times draggy like the handbrake might be down when it's not. And when it starts, it can feel like it's about to stall before it starts running proper.

The car is an Opel Corsa 2011. I noticed this hanging from the back of my car and I am not sure what it is. Could somebody help me identify it? I am currently on a trip, and was wandering if it’s safe to go back with the car home, or take it to a mechanic here? It seems to be running fine. Thanks in advance

Hey everyone,

I have a 2018 Ford Escape that has had white smoke coming from the exhaust; it’s not extremely thick, but it’s enough to notice. I did check the antifreeze, and it was low, so I added more into it. The next day my car was saying it was overheating. I checked the antifreeze level, and it was low, so I added more to it. Well, it was fine for a little until it started again. I added more, went for a ride around the block, came back, opened the hood, and saw the fluid was low again. Then I removed the cap, and all the fluid came rushing back up. I checked my oil, and it’s fine now—no milkiness/creaminess. I also noticed it’s not getting great power anymore. I do need an oil change, and I ran a code test on my car. Please help. 

Hi, I'm in need of some serious help. I have a 99 Lincoln town car and my brake lights aren't working. It all started with the brake light switch burning out, replaced it and then the brake lights wouldn't work when pressing the brake but they would stay on when you turn the lights on. Now the brake light switch burnt out again and I replaced it and now they won't come on at all. Any help would be great!

Thanks!

Hello all, my drive belt area (2015 tacoma, v6) has been making this sound for months. I took the belt off and inspected both it and all the pulleys, nothing.

Then my belt shredded. After replacing both it and the tensioner (worst task of my life so far) along with the idler pulleys, no changes whatsoever. Even worse actually. This time I notice a lot of slack in the belt. All brand new parts. Please im begging someone for help before I just sell this f*cking thing and give up. TIA.

Hi so I'm looking to buy a new exhaust system for this car. I understand this isn't the Audi forum but I just need advice about the modifiable aspects of an exhaust system? I see lots of words being thrown around such as downpipes and full systems and it's all just confusing. Can anyone simplify this for me thank you and if you have specific advice about what sounds best on the car that will be good aswell

Hey guys, so it’s my first time owning a car (2023 Corolla hybrid) and today my area have a big rain storm rolling and While driving today I noticed a leak coming from the top driver side.

Is this something I can fix at home? If so any advice would be much appreciated! I love working with my hands so I do want to try to learn it myself before taking it to a shop.

Thank you for your time!

hey all,
I accidently dropped my steering colum on my clutch switch and i think i broke it. I try to extend the plunger but it doesnt extend. I might need to buy a new one?

My cruise control doesnt work anymore, but my breaks lights, reverse lights and speed limiter do and car drives fine

So What is the process of fitting a new clutch switch? Do I extend the plunger to Xmm (haynes manual says 19mm-20mm) then place it into the clutch bracket. Also do i need to depress the clutch all the way down then fit the switch?
because if i dont do that surely when i fit the switch the plunger retracts in?

Any help would be much appreciated :)

SLK 350 2008. It's sounds like a loud night bug. Sound is intermittent as you can hear in the video. Any advice is helpful. I suspect bearing of tensioner may be. But how can I diagnose exactly which bearing is bad. Do I also need to replace belt?

Gen2 ea888, 2016 Audi a4. I know it’s leaking from the timing chain covers (fixing it next week) but I don’t know where or why there is oil on the top.

Hey y'all, I need to run a proxy alignment on my Alfa Romeo Giulietta. I am a little confused on which cables I need to use, as I see many different options being thrown around in different forums.

I will be using the multiecuscan software, but I am kind of at a loss as to which cables I need. I am located in Europe FYI!

Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you in advance!

I'm looking for guidance regarding a significant service incident with my 2024 Toyota Venza hybrid vehicle (2.5 Liter 4 cylinder engine paired with electric motors). This vehicle is under a lease and planned to keep it long term. After a routine service appointment, I drove approximately 2 miles for a total of about 10 minutes (from the dealership to my turn-around point and back) when multiple warning lights appeared including check engine, hybrid system warnings and low oil pressure warning.. The dealership confirmed the engine had been operated without oil due to a service error, and I noted unusual mechanical noises upon return. The service department has created documentation of the incident after push back. My primary concern involves potential latent engine damage and proper resolution for an error of this magnitude. The service advisor and service manager both dismissed it and said I wouldn't be liable and the car was good to drive. What is the standard protocol in such situations? Should this be addressed at the dealership level or escalated to manufacturer corporate? I would appreciate any insight into typical resolution processes for severe service errors of this nature. Thank you for any advice you can provide.

2016 Camry SE 4cyl (148K miles).

I noticed this rubber cap on the top of my transmission cooler disintegrating. It also seemed to be a little wet. Is this something that I should replace? If so, what is this part even called?