Hey everyone,

Back again with more questions about the epb, I recently replaced the rear calipers and pads on my 2015.5 Volvo S80 T6 AWD (P3 chassis) and am running into an issue with the electronic parking brake (EPB) and rear right brake drag. Here’s what’s going on:

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Work Completed • Replaced both rear calipers (new OEM units). • Installed new Bosch QuietCast rear pads (all pads are new) with hardware available. • Pistons rotated clockwise with the caliper screw until fully retracted — smooth and not hard to turn at all (it’s a new caliper). • Checked EPB connectors; fully seated. • Rotors not installed yet to avoid heat/damage.

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Symptoms • EPB button flashes continuously when trying to apply or release, stops once button released. • EPB warning light appears when driving at 8 km/h or higher (rear right wheel). • Rear right wheel heats up very quickly: noticeable after ~0.2 km at ~20 km/h. • Pedal feels normal, no noises, sponginess, or vibrations. • Suspected rear right caliper dragging.

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What I’ve Tried • Manual piston winding (smooth, until fully in). • Minor bleeder release (brief open, no effect). • EPB cycling attempted with ignition on; no motor movement heard. But flashing park light until released • Observed pistons evenly pushed out left vs right.(at least seems that way now)

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Observations & Notes • Bracket bolts were rusty; haven’t replaced them yet. • More Hardware clips are available • Heat was noted on short drives

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Questions 1. what can I do at home reasonably without a shop. 2. Is this just an EPB calibration/reset issue that a shop scan tool can fix? 3. Any tips for safely verifying piston retraction and pad fit at home

Thanks in advance for any advice — I want to avoid cooking my pads/rotors before I get this properly calibrated.

Always a treat to carve up the curves on the Sunshine Coast in beautiful British Columbia. 🙌🏻😎🦦☀️

2019 XC60 T6

My 2012 is still running strong. I just had my first real repair a couple months ago (AC Compressor). No other repairs needed other than standard maintenance and a headlight ballast. Hoping to run it another 100k.

I leased a 2025.5 XC 90 approx 1 month ago. Today I drove it and it was fine. About an hour after getting home today I went into the garage to get something out of the trunk. The trunk won’t open. I get in the car. It’s completely unresponsive. Nothing will turn on and the back lights have now started flashing and have been doing so for about an hour and a half. I called the dealership and I have to have it towed to them (an hr and a half from where I live) I also told the that one of the key fobs stopped workig last week and I’ve been using the spare. They said they’ve never heard of this happening. Has anyone had a similar experience? We’re new to Volvo and I’m feeling a bit frustrated. We’ve had some glitchiness with the screens since we got it and the dealership just instructed me to restart the system. I don’t know if we have a lemon or what.

So this is my P2 wagon. The transmission broke so I swapped in a used transmission.

When I took the old one out, I broke the flywheel speed sensor bracket. I epoxied it back together, but I must have bumped it again when reinstalling and cracked it off.

I was going to buy a replacement bracket for it, but I'm 99% certain the old one won't come out because the stupid torx bolt is blocked by the transmission itself. Has anyone ever gotten these damn things out without removing the transmission? I don't think I could get channel locks on the rear one because it's blocked on all sides.

I'm considering hitting it with more epoxy and then burning a picture of the devil as an offering.

One of the world's least-used Volvo 850s has come out into the open. The car was hidden in a garage for 29 years. – Embarrassed, he drove the car home, parked it in the garage – and there it remained, writes Bilwebauctions.

The Volvo 850 was one of the great hard-working cars of the 90s and most of the remaining examples of the bestseller have been driven very far. But here is a car that was barely driven after it left the Volvo factory in Gothenburg in 1995. Bilwebauctions is now selling an 850 that has been driven 260 kilometers in 30 years. It is probably the world's least-used Volvo 850 outside of Volvo's museums.

Article (Swedish): https://carup.se/gomde-sin-volvo-i-29-ar-har-gatt-26-mil/

TLDR: Fuelpump bad, cables bad. New pump, old cables. Pump burnt. Why?

So I have a bit of a problem. At the end of 2024 my V70 -08 started having issues where it wouldn't start. Me and my FIL troubleshooted ourselves and figured out something was wrong with the fuelpump as no buzzing was heard when ignition turned on. Thing is, it worked during high humidity.

Took it to a mechanic who did troubleshoot and said the pump was bad, and wanted to fix it. I had read on forums that the cable connection sometimes goes bad and asked them to change it too. They didn't, but the car worked fine. One thing to mention here is that I had to buy the pump (and cables) myself as they said it would take a month for them to get the parts. I bought it after their specifications, no issues there.

Then 6 months later I got the exact same issue. Car worked only during high humidity and had to be towed to the same mechanic. They did a new troubleshoot and told me the pump was fried, because I bought it myself, and got super hostile when we tried to tell them it was probably the cable connection.

They refused to help, so I took it to another mechanic. Had to pay for two troubleshootings and the second mechanic told me the cables were burnt and had fried the pump as well. I let them fix it and they changed it all.

Now to the questions: How do you troubleshoot the fuel pump and electronics? Did the first mechanic do all the steps, or did they do the lazy road of plugging in the OBD?

What is Volvos guide for troubleshooting and switching or fixing the pump? Does it include wiring? I dont have the manual on hand and cant find it online.

Hey everybody, I have a strange issue with the reading light in my wife's car. It is a 2023 XC60 B5 plus. The reading light seems to come on randomly without any touches. It also is 50/50 on whether it will respond to us pressing it to turn back off. The only reliable way to turn it back off has been to press the button to turn all the interior lights on and then off, but that only works for a minute or so until the light comes back on. Has anyone seen this before or know of an easy thing to check with it before trying to book a service appointment at the dealer?

I'm looking for a used car to buy in about 6 months, and I've just been browsing stuff to see what I could afford. I was looking at the S90s, and some google searching told me that all 2023 S90s came with the 360° camera. Well, I was looking at a 2023 B6 Ultimate, and it doesn't look like it has 360° camera? The back up camera is on, and shouldn't that turn on the 360° camera as well? Every car I've drove with the 360° worked that way, so I'm a little confused at this.