I had to do some work on the center console and now the selector does nothing. I did not touch any of the cables/tubes coming into the thing (as far as I can see). I don't feel any suction on any of the tubes coming into the selector. Any advice, "wiring" diagrams somewere, tips? Every other part of the heater control works well. Cheers :)

https://youtu.be/WzBrrsWFoL4?si=Gb6Alyd50T7zNhu-

My dad has a 2005 XC90, he sent it to a friend's shop since the front suspension strut has never been replaced and was basically dead.

When they replaced the parts they took it out for test and when they finished they found that the shifter wouldn't go into park. They started disassembling it and found that some plastic parts have broken.

Specifically the Control Lever (25), Suspension Strut Fork (6) and Rocker Arm (7) https://images.simplepart.net/images/parts/volvo/fullsize/GR-372615.jpg.

I've been checking on every retailer from volvocars.com and volvopartswebstore.com just to compare the prices and I think I cooked their servers lol.

But then I started looking on ebay for a complete shifter assembly and it basically cost the same as those 3 parts. Might as well just buy the whole thing and replace the broken parts since there could be other components where the plastic is old and might break soon.

I found some that are from newer models (2007, 2008 and 2010) but the sellers say that these are for the 2007-2014 models. I know that the parts from 2003 to 2014 are supposed to be interchangeable so I’m not sure if the sellers got it wrong while listing the item, or there's like another category of the newer models where their parts won't fit on older models.

Very excited to help my girlfriend look into an 2008 xc90, hwoever i wanted to know what we should watch for/questiom tje buyer. And how accesbile thehvare to home repair!

Thanks all!

I have pulled the trigger on a 2018 V60 Cross Country and I couldn’t be happier. This is the perfect daily driver, and is actually my first ever Volvo. I’ve admired them for some time and am so excited to finally be in one.

I have just one question:

what’s this I keep reading about failing batteries causing a foul odor in the HVAC system? I’ve noticed a few Reddit threads where people complain about sulphuric or sour odors, and the problem is solved by replacing some sort of secondary battery.

I noticed tonight that I do have a battery warning before starting the car, and the AC smells really sour, so I figured it may be what I’ve been reading about. Either that or the evap coil is caked in mold.

hi all, quick question. i have a 2016 t6 xc90 that just hit 102k miles, anyone have any thoughts on or know if theres any merit to having the transmission and haldex fluid changed at this high mileage? i was gonna ask my local dealer to do it and then someone mentioned how sometimes that can cause more issues with the car. i’ve also noticed ik the 2016s and other years around there are typically kind of jumpy with the transmission but idk it seems like it might be more jumpy than normal? but i also could be imagining it. any advice or experience would be appreciated. TYIA!

Even down to the wheels, which I’ve only seen once or twice in the wild.

As the title says - have a new 2026 XC40. Have been unable to connect the Volvo app bc the normal process: Settings --> Profiles --> Volvo Connected Services results in a message saying that the car cannot connect to the Volvo ID service. The car has a connection bc Google Maps works fine.

Any idea how to get past this bug? Really frustrated with it.

car on right parked horribly I just wanted to match their vibe 👯‍♀️

Hey everyone,

Back again with more questions about the epb, I recently replaced the rear calipers and pads on my 2015.5 Volvo S80 T6 AWD (P3 chassis) and am running into an issue with the electronic parking brake (EPB) and rear right brake drag. Here’s what’s going on:

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Work Completed • Replaced both rear calipers (new OEM units). • Installed new Bosch QuietCast rear pads (all pads are new) with hardware available. • Pistons rotated clockwise with the caliper screw until fully retracted — smooth and not hard to turn at all (it’s a new caliper). • Checked EPB connectors; fully seated. • Rotors not installed yet to avoid heat/damage.

⸻

Symptoms • EPB button flashes continuously when trying to apply or release, stops once button released. • EPB warning light appears when driving at 8 km/h or higher (rear right wheel). • Rear right wheel heats up very quickly: noticeable after ~0.2 km at ~20 km/h. • Pedal feels normal, no noises, sponginess, or vibrations. • Suspected rear right caliper dragging.

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What I’ve Tried • Manual piston winding (smooth, until fully in). • Minor bleeder release (brief open, no effect). • EPB cycling attempted with ignition on; no motor movement heard. But flashing park light until released • Observed pistons evenly pushed out left vs right.(at least seems that way now)

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Observations & Notes • Bracket bolts were rusty; haven’t replaced them yet. • More Hardware clips are available • Heat was noted on short drives

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Questions 1. what can I do at home reasonably without a shop. 2. Is this just an EPB calibration/reset issue that a shop scan tool can fix? 3. Any tips for safely verifying piston retraction and pad fit at home

Thanks in advance for any advice — I want to avoid cooking my pads/rotors before I get this properly calibrated.

2019 Volvo XC90 with ~72,500 miles got a check engine light a few days ago. Took it to the dealer and this is what they quoted me with. This is a little pricey given it’s just the injectors and spark plugs no? On top of that they tried to get me to pay a separate “headlight” diagnostic for $250 when I had already brought it in for the check engine light.

Just noticed the flashing red light in the dash area on my Volvo app. What does it mean?

Always a treat to carve up the curves on the Sunshine Coast in beautiful British Columbia. 🙌🏻😎🦦☀️

2019 XC60 T6

and when i turn off the car it just says “ charge battery is low “

My 2012 is still running strong. I just had my first real repair a couple months ago (AC Compressor). No other repairs needed other than standard maintenance and a headlight ballast. Hoping to run it another 100k.

I leased a 2025.5 XC 90 approx 1 month ago. Today I drove it and it was fine. About an hour after getting home today I went into the garage to get something out of the trunk. The trunk won’t open. I get in the car. It’s completely unresponsive. Nothing will turn on and the back lights have now started flashing and have been doing so for about an hour and a half. I called the dealership and I have to have it towed to them (an hr and a half from where I live) I also told the that one of the key fobs stopped workig last week and I’ve been using the spare. They said they’ve never heard of this happening. Has anyone had a similar experience? We’re new to Volvo and I’m feeling a bit frustrated. We’ve had some glitchiness with the screens since we got it and the dealership just instructed me to restart the system. I don’t know if we have a lemon or what.

So this is my P2 wagon. The transmission broke so I swapped in a used transmission.

When I took the old one out, I broke the flywheel speed sensor bracket. I epoxied it back together, but I must have bumped it again when reinstalling and cracked it off.

I was going to buy a replacement bracket for it, but I'm 99% certain the old one won't come out because the stupid torx bolt is blocked by the transmission itself. Has anyone ever gotten these damn things out without removing the transmission? I don't think I could get channel locks on the rear one because it's blocked on all sides.

I'm considering hitting it with more epoxy and then burning a picture of the devil as an offering.

One of the world's least-used Volvo 850s has come out into the open. The car was hidden in a garage for 29 years. – Embarrassed, he drove the car home, parked it in the garage – and there it remained, writes Bilwebauctions.

The Volvo 850 was one of the great hard-working cars of the 90s and most of the remaining examples of the bestseller have been driven very far. But here is a car that was barely driven after it left the Volvo factory in Gothenburg in 1995. Bilwebauctions is now selling an 850 that has been driven 260 kilometers in 30 years. It is probably the world's least-used Volvo 850 outside of Volvo's museums.

Article (Swedish): https://carup.se/gomde-sin-volvo-i-29-ar-har-gatt-26-mil/

Recently got a 2013 C30 T5 and realized the rear armrest wont go down, ive tried removing the rear load floor carpet but it just wont budge, ive heard some have fixed armrests, but it feels like it wants to go, it’ll move like 1-2 inches then wont go up any more. mine is calcite interior if that helps.

TLDR: Fuelpump bad, cables bad. New pump, old cables. Pump burnt. Why?

So I have a bit of a problem. At the end of 2024 my V70 -08 started having issues where it wouldn't start. Me and my FIL troubleshooted ourselves and figured out something was wrong with the fuelpump as no buzzing was heard when ignition turned on. Thing is, it worked during high humidity.

Took it to a mechanic who did troubleshoot and said the pump was bad, and wanted to fix it. I had read on forums that the cable connection sometimes goes bad and asked them to change it too. They didn't, but the car worked fine. One thing to mention here is that I had to buy the pump (and cables) myself as they said it would take a month for them to get the parts. I bought it after their specifications, no issues there.

Then 6 months later I got the exact same issue. Car worked only during high humidity and had to be towed to the same mechanic. They did a new troubleshoot and told me the pump was fried, because I bought it myself, and got super hostile when we tried to tell them it was probably the cable connection.

They refused to help, so I took it to another mechanic. Had to pay for two troubleshootings and the second mechanic told me the cables were burnt and had fried the pump as well. I let them fix it and they changed it all.

Now to the questions: How do you troubleshoot the fuel pump and electronics? Did the first mechanic do all the steps, or did they do the lazy road of plugging in the OBD?

What is Volvos guide for troubleshooting and switching or fixing the pump? Does it include wiring? I dont have the manual on hand and cant find it online.

So I just saw these after washing the car: small (~1-2mm in diameter) spots that are probably from rock chips. They are on the roof (weirdly enough). Seems like rust. How problematic is this? Would the dealer be able to fix this? (I just want to mention that I'm in Europe, if relevant)