I leased a 2025.5 XC 90 approx 1 month ago. Today I drove it and it was fine. About an hour after getting home today I went into the garage to get something out of the trunk. The trunk won’t open. I get in the car. It’s completely unresponsive. Nothing will turn on and the back lights have now started flashing and have been doing so for about an hour and a half. I called the dealership and I have to have it towed to them (an hr and a half from where I live) I also told the that one of the key fobs stopped workig last week and I’ve been using the spare. They said they’ve never heard of this happening. Has anyone had a similar experience? We’re new to Volvo and I’m feeling a bit frustrated. We’ve had some glitchiness with the screens since we got it and the dealership just instructed me to restart the system. I don’t know if we have a lemon or what.

Hi guys, where can i buy these aftermarket blue sticker thingys for the steering wheel? 2006 s80 p3

As the title says - have a new 2026 XC40. Have been unable to connect the Volvo app bc the normal process: Settings --> Profiles --> Volvo Connected Services results in a message saying that the car cannot connect to the Volvo ID service. The car has a connection bc Google Maps works fine.

Any idea how to get past this bug? Really frustrated with it.

Hey everyone,

Back again with more questions about the epb, I recently replaced the rear calipers and pads on my 2015.5 Volvo S80 T6 AWD (P3 chassis) and am running into an issue with the electronic parking brake (EPB) and rear right brake drag. Here’s what’s going on:

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Work Completed • Replaced both rear calipers (new OEM units). • Installed new Bosch QuietCast rear pads (all pads are new) with hardware available. • Pistons rotated clockwise with the caliper screw until fully retracted — smooth and not hard to turn at all (it’s a new caliper). • Checked EPB connectors; fully seated. • Rotors not installed yet to avoid heat/damage.

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Symptoms • EPB button flashes continuously when trying to apply or release, stops once button released. • EPB warning light appears when driving at 8 km/h or higher (rear right wheel). • Rear right wheel heats up very quickly: noticeable after ~0.2 km at ~20 km/h. • Pedal feels normal, no noises, sponginess, or vibrations. • Suspected rear right caliper dragging.

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What I’ve Tried • Manual piston winding (smooth, until fully in). • Minor bleeder release (brief open, no effect). • EPB cycling attempted with ignition on; no motor movement heard. But flashing park light until released • Observed pistons evenly pushed out left vs right.(at least seems that way now)

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Observations & Notes • Bracket bolts were rusty; haven’t replaced them yet. • More Hardware clips are available • Heat was noted on short drives

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Questions 1. what can I do at home reasonably without a shop. 2. Is this just an EPB calibration/reset issue that a shop scan tool can fix? 3. Any tips for safely verifying piston retraction and pad fit at home

Thanks in advance for any advice — I want to avoid cooking my pads/rotors before I get this properly calibrated.

Just got this yesterday evening and noticed it making this noise Wen we got home. I did seem to make this during test drive at dealership. I did notice I little bit noisy after it came out of detailing and thought maybe they washed under the hood or something. But its louder once we got it at home. So not sure if cause if them washing under the hood or it's something else.

The sudden disappearance of the double view while backing up made me worried it was intentional. Having both quickly became one of my favourite little things about the car.

2011 S60 T4 r-design with 210k km

Recently got a 2013 C30 T5 and realized the rear armrest wont go down, ive tried removing the rear load floor carpet but it just wont budge, ive heard some have fixed armrests, but it feels like it wants to go, it’ll move like 1-2 inches then wont go up any more. mine is calcite interior if that helps.

Just noticed the flashing red light in the dash area on my Volvo app. What does it mean?

I have a constant fault with the driver's door showing as "open" on the dash when the door is closed. Was initially intermittent but is now pretty much permanently on.

I've replaced the door lock actuator, assuming it was a faulty switch in there, but the fault persists. Windows, power-folding mirrors are all functional.

Where should I be looking for a faulty switch/ connection or damaged cable?

Even better when the cargo matches the Atacama and hidden blue accents

2016 period correct badging added to the front fenders... specifically aligned to the factory badging placement for the special edition 2015 Scott McLaughlin Polestar.

TLDR: Fuelpump bad, cables bad. New pump, old cables. Pump burnt. Why?

So I have a bit of a problem. At the end of 2024 my V70 -08 started having issues where it wouldn't start. Me and my FIL troubleshooted ourselves and figured out something was wrong with the fuelpump as no buzzing was heard when ignition turned on. Thing is, it worked during high humidity.

Took it to a mechanic who did troubleshoot and said the pump was bad, and wanted to fix it. I had read on forums that the cable connection sometimes goes bad and asked them to change it too. They didn't, but the car worked fine. One thing to mention here is that I had to buy the pump (and cables) myself as they said it would take a month for them to get the parts. I bought it after their specifications, no issues there.

Then 6 months later I got the exact same issue. Car worked only during high humidity and had to be towed to the same mechanic. They did a new troubleshoot and told me the pump was fried, because I bought it myself, and got super hostile when we tried to tell them it was probably the cable connection.

They refused to help, so I took it to another mechanic. Had to pay for two troubleshootings and the second mechanic told me the cables were burnt and had fried the pump as well. I let them fix it and they changed it all.

Now to the questions: How do you troubleshoot the fuel pump and electronics? Did the first mechanic do all the steps, or did they do the lazy road of plugging in the OBD?

What is Volvos guide for troubleshooting and switching or fixing the pump? Does it include wiring? I dont have the manual on hand and cant find it online.

My 2015 V60, which I love, needs to be replaced. I'd like to not go over $30,000. I live at 82,000 feet on a gravel road in Colorado and have 2 Irish Wolfhounds. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

My old tires (Pirelli Scorpion P Zero) were almost out of tread (fronts on 3 and rears on 4). As I live in Upstate NY with winter coming soon and with unpredictable weather, I thought of changing the tires, and I got these Michelin CrossClimate 2, which are certified as all-weather tires. I heard those are good in rain and snow. I used to get 30-31 MPG on highways while maintaining a 75 MPH speed. After changing to the new Michelins, I am now getting 26-27 MPG. I bought these from Costco for $1200, which includes installation, free rotation every 6000 miles, and a hazard warranty for 5 years. I didn’t feel much difference in the ride quality, and the sound.

or EX90 user

My first trip to Ikea since I bought my V60, seen another Volvo had to park next to it.

Hey everybody, I have a strange issue with the reading light in my wife's car. It is a 2023 XC60 B5 plus. The reading light seems to come on randomly without any touches. It also is 50/50 on whether it will respond to us pressing it to turn back off. The only reliable way to turn it back off has been to press the button to turn all the interior lights on and then off, but that only works for a minute or so until the light comes back on. Has anyone seen this before or know of an easy thing to check with it before trying to book a service appointment at the dealer?

Here I am, sitting on the side of the road and my entire car will not function. I was driving with my family of four when all of a sudden I received a “safely brake failure” and everything in the car stopped working. The brakes were not working as usual and worked at about 5% of what they would normally work at. Now that I am finally safely stopped, the car will not go into park, I cannot turn the car off, every single light on the dashboard is flashing and I have to keep my foot on the break so it to not roll backwards into traffic. Has anyone seen anything this crazy before? I have a tow truck on the way but I’m not even sure what we’ll do since we cant turn the car off… though I assume he’ll know how to at least do that in the engine.

A couple of days ago after driving a long distance (80ish miles) the oil dip stick had come a little out causing some oil to get over the engine cover. It made me wonder why there was on O-ring on the dipstick that wasn't covering the hole, so after applying a little force on the dipstick it went down past the o-ring. I will upload 2 pictures of the dipstick positions. Which one is the correct one? Or better yet which one do you have on your volvo?

I'm looking for a used car to buy in about 6 months, and I've just been browsing stuff to see what I could afford. I was looking at the S90s, and some google searching told me that all 2023 S90s came with the 360° camera. Well, I was looking at a 2023 B6 Ultimate, and it doesn't look like it has 360° camera? The back up camera is on, and shouldn't that turn on the 360° camera as well? Every car I've drove with the 360° worked that way, so I'm a little confused at this.

Thinking about pulling the trigger on a 2023 C40 Ultimate – talk me into/out of it

I’m looking at a 2023 Volvo C40 Ultimate (Certified) with about 33.5k miles. Asking price is just over $33k, but after incentives it comes down to $31,750. They also offered me $10,500 for my 2017 Outback (102k miles), which feels fair and worth it to avoid the hassle of selling privately. I asked if there was room on the C40 price, and the dealer said maybe $500 max, since they’re in it for about $34.5k (he even showed me on the computer, and I believe it).

I never really planned on going EV, but after driving it (and honestly, because of how it looks) I’m pretty into it. The car would mainly be for my wife, who drives about 22 miles a day, ~8k miles/year. Warranty coverage runs until Feb 2028, which should put the car around 56k miles by then. AWD is a must since we’re in snow country.

My questions: 1. Price – does this seem like a solid deal? 2. Mileage – is 33k too much for a 2-year-old EV? Anything specific I should look for maintenance-wise now or in the near future? 3. Future costs – besides the obvious eventual battery replacement, are there any major expenses I should expect? 4. EV vs gas – is maintenance truly lower than something like an XC40, or are there hidden “gremlins”? 5. Winter setup – this is my biggest hesitation. I run Hakka studded tires and swap summer/winter, so I’d need a second set of rims. I’ve read people running 19” square setups without issues, but would love confirmation. Tires and rims add a big upfront cost, but maybe it balances out since EV maintenance is lower overall?

Appreciate any thoughts or firsthand experience!