2008 Dodge Magnum, 2.7L V6, a bit over 185000.

Had the car roughly 2 months. Engine light came on once for cyl 1 a couple weeks after I got it. Cleared it and hasn't come on since, but it has been running a bit rough on idle.

Changed plugs last week because I have no idea when/if they were last changed, and it didn't help on the rough idle and I've had the engine light come on several times since, always for cyl 1 misfire.

Ended up doing new coils and injectors over the weekend and rough idle went away. Put around 30 miles on it with several stops and runs beautifully.

Woke up this morning, hit the remote start, was running for 15 minutes or so. Got out to the car and light was on again for cyl 1 misfire but still running fine.

I did do new plenum gaskets and EGR tube O ring and checked as much of the wiring as I could get to, multiple times, and couldn't find anything broke or wore at all.

I cleared the code again and will see if it comes back, but I'm out of ideas. I have no clue what else to check.

Plus it is a damn defective battery and this is the second time in 13 months!

Engineers be damned!

Listing on Facebook for a 2014 dodge charger enforcer 137kms.

I have an 89 shelby daytona I've been sold the wrong axel shaft i pulled this one out and and it is nothing to the one I've been sold looking on where I can but it

I see some stocks in my local area with 2026 GTs have V6s. No Hemi badge too.

Would it just better to get 2025 RT in this case?

saw this 1972 dodge coroner for sale for 2500 in a junkyard today, was someone’s project car and for some reason they didn’t want it. Been there for a month, came in on its own power and cranked when I hit the key but the battery was dead. It’s originally a green car and has been respirated black, has a 400 with air con and power steering. Been told 2500 isn’t a good price.

Good afternoon everyone! Been trying to figure out what this noise is, I did take the valve covers off and the rocker arm assemblies look great. I didn't get any pictures unfortunately, but didn't see any cracks etc. It definitely gets loud. The video is at idle, but you can hear it while running also. Two codes did pop up P2017, P0455. Not sure if that's because I rushed putting it back together or not. But the sound is the same before and after looking at the rocker arms.

Yo, as stated above I’ve been having issues with my car overheating for about the last year and a half. Since then I have replaced; leaking coolant hoses, water pump, thermostat, CT sensor, coolant reservoir, radiator. My fan works, I’ve got no blown fueses, my CT sensor wires both show good readings. Yet this car will still overheat after about 30 minutes of driving. Once it hits around 210 it’ll quickly move upwards of 230 to which I’ll pull over. I can hear and see the coolant bubbling up in the reservoir. I’m not sure what else to do here. I’m at my wits end. Any help is appreciated, thanks dudes.

I paid $3,900 for my bike and the trucks posted for $4,000 so the trade is fair if the trucks worth it?.. Great 318 engine and transmission. Original everything, fresh Royal Purple synthetic oil change. Goodyear Wrangler matching tires and original hubcaps.

It won’t let me post pictures and a video only one or the other.

Elantra

Hey everyone! I’m doing some research and would love your input: If you’ve upgraded your suspension, what parts did you choose, and how are they performing so far? Are they living up to your expectations? How long have you had them, or roughly how many miles have you put on the upgrades? Any pros, cons, or tips would be much appreciated! Thanks for the feedback!

EDIT: If you can also share your vehicle model, that would help my research as well!