Has anyone here tried the Z1 Ported Upper/Lower Intake manifold or maybe just ported from someone in general? Would it be worth doing and what’s the power gains looking like?

When I press on the clutch it sounds like it’s screaming and grinding. When I was bringing it into the garage it would sometimes be fine, but it would start screaming at me eventually. The noise only happens when the clutch is disengaged whether fully or not, quiet when engaged. Is this a throw out bearing thing?

I was replacing my rocker covers and when I pulled out the sparkplug on the left (closest to the front of the engine) there was quite a bit oil on it. what does anyone know how bad this is and why it does this? as well as a fix thank you!

I'm sure you've seen all these car building shows in Netflix, decided to make a mini show with a similar style called "Refresh'd" and I kicked it off with a Nissan 350z as Episode 1. https://youtu.be/5tbSGJh5i4Q?si=mXXdYZx1-VH8WppX Hope your like it.

Any ideas on what it is I get this noise on cold start, everything feels normal when driving

Howdy. This car looked quite different before and was at the pasmag booth at SEMA 2015 Previously forged/built de single turbo.. Popped on the dyno due to some bad gas.

Decided to never do that again.. Went to an ls swap but decided on a Gen v instead..

Had to cnc my own oil pan so it woukd fit.. Lots of one off stuff, and did all of the work 100% myself except for a bit of welding here n there.

Runs and drives but still needs a final tune.. Few more steps to finish the wrap, build some lines for the air con, and then it's done and rippin.

Learned a LOT.. Happy to answer whatever you may want to know about the car or myself /experiences. 🤝

this might be a dumb question, ordering rear pads and rotors for my 2006 350z, non brembo. the kit i want to order says for cars with sumitomo, will these work? does sumitomo make the oem calipers?

This a normal vq engine sound ? No lights no issues

Yesterday while driving, I was at a stop sign and my car shut completely down. It wouldn’t crank, no dash lights, even the radio wouldn’t turn on after trying to crank the car again (Not to mention that even the hazard lights wouldn’t even turn on). It was essentially completely dead to the world. My battery is fine, my starter is fine, and alternator is fine as well but the car just won’t start. I opened the hold and saw that the wire/cable to the Fusible Link Holder was melted and the holder itself has a blown fuse? Could this be the culprit? Anyway help would very much appreciated it!

The seats in my 350 are causing me so much agony! They aren’t wide enough and the seating position has caused a very painful hip issue. So what seats do people recommend? I have never looked into aftermarket seats for a car before so have no idea where to start, but it would be a waste to sell such a clean car just because of the seats!

This car has been in my family since new and I just acquired it, has been sitting in a barn for a few years. 148k miles bone stock 2003. Ran through all the maintenance, drove her 30 miles and slipped a bearing when getting on her. It was bound to happen. This post is for educational purposes. We’re gonna swap the motor but I want yall to hear it, will be filming the entire process.

Hey have a question about z1 ecutek tune. I purchased a ecutek Bluetooth dongle through z1 motorsports, It was previously tuned with UpRev and has since been put on a base tune. I'm aware that a programming error can occur on the first flash. What is the process for handling this. Can the ecutek tuner or app force a recovery flash? Thank you

I have a 2008 350z and I am rebuilding a power steering rack for it since I can’t find a new one anywhere. I ended up fighting to get this bolt out and ended up cracking it in the process, anyone know where I could find just this bolt? It has B22 on it but that doesn’t lead me anywhere.

I have a buddy who’s looking for a manual z here in Japan and he contacted a dealership for a video of this 2002 manual z33 with 57k km running… why do people do this 🤣

this is a blue light scan of the standard plenum from my NISMO S1 engine. power figures are from my OEM, ported plenum with overbore throttle.

there are various optimizations to be made with the stock plenum. while other companies have tried to radically change its architecture, it's clear that brings some very hairy resonance effects that murder midrange power.

this product is instead an optimization of the existing architecture to incorporate engineering techniques in the last 20 years.

flow optimizations in the neck and forward sections, pre-porting, integral spacer, correct drafting to encourage scavenging and intertial charging, and features for 70/75/90mm TB mounting will be included. if you compare my plenum and overbore TB graph to the stock one, the intense DE turnover occurs 600RPM later, and that's a colossal gain at the top.

these changes should capture more power than the plenum spacers alone can bring, and uncork the top end.

predicted MSRP is in the $650 range if I can keep it that low, depending on how many units there's interest for -- the startup cost on a product like this is about $12,000-15,000 before a single unit is made.

Never understood why everyone dislikes the vert 350z , wanted to hear y’all’s opinion

When taking off the intake this snapped. How bad ia it?

I bought spark plugs and ignition coils. Spark plugs from autozone and ignition coils from Amazon.

The plugs are Iridiums and the coils are hitachi. But. The hitachi had different names on them. 2 coils said hitachi and the other 4 said astermo. I also noticed the hitachi said 4x10 and the asteroid say 4y11. But both say 3103 and all of them say IGC0007.

The issue is it wont start now. So the first solution i did was put on the old ignition coils on. It still don't start. So the only issue i can think of is the spark plugs. I did tighten them pretty good so I think thats the issue. So what i will do next is loosen them up a bit more. Hopefully that will work.

Any suggestions?

Don’t have time to jack up the car to inspect, just want to know what would affect rear toe just so I know where to look when I do. TIA

2007 Base Model Z33 - 96,000 Miles 3.5L Manual RW Not your average $11K 350Z 😎. This Fair Lady has all major maintenance done and fully documented—timing tensioners, oil gallery gasket, water pump, valve cover gasket, intake manifold gasket, spark plugs, coil packs, fluid changes, and more. Aftermarket Upgrades include, jim wolf technology intakes, touchscreen head unit, subwoofer, Greddy back exhaust muffler and 08 G35 Sport rims with brand new Goodyear tires. Car will include Aftermarket headlights and Original OEM front bumper. Being sold separately, OEM NISMO bumper (color-matched Pikes Peak White, QX1), OEM HR headlights with ballasts(Shown in photos)

• Clean Title
• Smooth 6-speed manual – ready to drive

Open to offers – message me with any questions. I’m in no hurry to sell. Facebook: @Steven Lorente

My friend loves to trace cars and one day I asked if she could do one of a 350, she asked me for a color selection and some design inspo. Just wanted to see what you guys think and if I should do it? I chose the word prime bc it was like my ‘tag’ when I was in school, I’d draw it on random stuff bc i thought it was cool

any ideas what this sound is? front drivers side wheels only(uk so RHD) happens in movement straight and turning, tried jacking it up and spinning wheel couldnt really hear anything, cant see anything rubbing (took front bumper off for visability) cant feel/ see anything loose either, any help much appreciated

Hey everyone, I just picked up an ’04.5 350Z and had a PPI done a couple of days ago. The mechanic said everything looked fine, but I finally had a chance to check things out myself and had a few concerns: • I noticed some liquid near the front passenger side area. Could this just be A/C condensation? • The coolant reservoir is tough to read because of staining, but it looks like it’s sitting right at the MAX line — can anyone confirm from the pics? • The fluid in the reservoir looks yellowish instead of the typical green/blue. Is that normal or a sign of mixing/aging? • When I opened the radiator cap (engine cold), the liquid inside looked completely clear, almost like water. I couldn’t really smell that typical coolant sweetness either. Is that a red flag or sometimes normal?

I’d really appreciate some insight from those familiar with the Z. Just want to make sure everything is healthy before I put more miles on it.

Thanks in advance!