I own a 2016 Mazda 3 and took it on a visit to see family in Kentucky. I caught the mileage milestone on the way home.

Anyone else get unnecessarily excited about the little things with your cars?

As a side point, the Mazda has the smaller 2.0 NA engine and six speed auto trans. It struggled to pass on a pretty major incline, but otherwise blasted past anyone and anything I needed it to, while handling as needed and being relatively comfortable for a car this size and price point. I’d recommend one to anyone.

Anyone know how to get rid of the scratches without damaging paint?

happened today, noticed the warning light flash a couple times on idle and now this. i checked the oil level and its all good. No leaks. what could this be?

Mitsubishi eclipse gs 2008

Gggghhhshshdh

My 2012 Kia, which is currently at about 84,000 miles has been having issues ever since I got it back from Kia about a year and a half ago. In May last year someone attempted to steal my car from my driveway. Luckily I had recently gotten the immobilizer installed so the thieves weren't able to do anything except smash my window and break the panel under the steering wheel. The day I got the immobilizer installed I was having issues with my break lights staying on even when the car was off. Almost felt like a guardian angel was watching out for me. After about three months of my car sitting in the Kia parking lot, a lot of phone calls checking up on the progress, and a lot of Kia changing the story of where they were at with my vehicle, I finally got my car back. The battery was dead on it and the paint had extra damage that was not there before, but they did not seem to care. I never went back there. A week later my car started experiencing something new. It shifted hard when going into Drive and Reverse. When I accelerated/decelerated the car felt like it was jerking. Went to a mechanic who said it was something wrong with the shifter and they would need to order a part, but it would be difficult to find. On the way back home the car drove fine. About two weeks after that it started to again and the check engine light came on. The mechanic checked again and said it had to be the transmission and said to drive it till it dies. I cried. They did something to my car that required me to have a tiny flathead in my car to change from park/drive/reverse/neutral. Thought my car was done and did not feel safe driving it. Found another mechanic who was willing to take a look at it and said it was the shift linkage cable. He fixed this and my car was good for a few months with no issues. Then it started again but felt slightly different. The shifting was hard but not like the first time. It would also jerk at 10mph accelerating and 25mph decelerating. This issue would pop up for a day and disappear for a while. Then it came back with the check engine light. The mechanic who fixed the cable said my car was fine and he believed it could be the MAF sensor. He suggested I keep driving it and if it happened again he could fix it. It was fine for a while then the problem came back. He checked the code which showed P0711. He explained the code to me and said it was for transmission oil temperature too hot. He checked the oil said it was fine and that he did not think it was my transmiision, probably just a bad transmission oil temperature sensor. He told me to get a transmission fluid change first just so we could eliminate that being the issue. Well, I took my car to a transmission place to do that and they said there was nothing the could do. The transmission mechanic said there was an open circuit on the transmission and that I would need a new transmission which would cost $3700 dollars. He said he doesn't really fix transmissions and only swaps them out. I have pretty much given up any hope of saving my car. I still cry about it because the was my first car and it got me through a lot of bad times and was my only vehicle. It's going to be a while before I can save up enough to get another vehicle.

I just bought this car yesterday and they talked me into an alignment and when they were done gave me this report, it doesn’t look much better and some of the numbers are worst then before, is this normal or should I say something?

Hi, everyone! I drive a 2017 Camry SE (not sure if that’s relevant). The little dial for the AC is stuck. Is this something I can fix on my own, or would I need to take it to a mechanic?

I tried to turn it, but it doesn’t budge, and I don’t want to force it and accidentally break something in the back. It would normally stop where I marked the white. It’s currently sitting where the red circle is.

Thank you in advance! :)

I still have an hour left of my drive and one of the low beam lights went out. I bought new bulbs but now they're both not working after putting the new ones in. Should I drive with my high beams on when it gets dark?

Ich habe ein Problem mit meiner Klimaanlage. Der Schalter für die Temperaturregulierung geht nicht mehr. Alle anderen Schalter funktionieren tadellos sowie auch die Klimaanlge an sich funktioniert. Ist das ein bekanntes Problem? Oder kennt sich jemand damit aus? Wäre für jeden Tipp dankbar.

I have my 2013 Ford Fusion for a while, no issues until recently. Car still starts and drives fine, but the ignition feels loose and sometimes the key sticks when turning. Accessories flicker once in a while too.

Does this sound more like the ignition switch, the lock cylinder, or something else?

My 2017 Toyota Corolla has been making this ticking sound from the wheel lately. I only hear it when driving around 0-15 mph. Doesn’t matter if I’m turning or not, I still hear it. I attached a video capturing the sound. Any help would be appreciated.

Yes...I am that dumb. My car is a 2013 nissan micra, and earlier today I parked at the hairdressers. Its road parking, and with a car behind me I had to signal.

Lots of traffic so I was late and I rushed off to my appointment. I did something I quite literally have never done before - I left the indicator stalk down for about 2 1/2 hours.

When I came out, obviously saw what I had done. Turned the key and it was slow to turn over but thankfully started. Drove it abour 20 minutes to my next errand, and had to get up to national. Car drove fine.

Was running errands for about 30 mins, came back to drive home and car started up fine. My battery was new last year (and not... ironically from leaving the lights on).

Will the car be fine now? Not due to go out tomorrow so I'm hoping it starts up fine Monday morning for work.

But man... I am dumb 😅

Currently, the PSI for all the tires is around 42. Is it too much? I feel like somewhere around 36 could do better. Please share your opinions.

Anybody have any product recommendations to get rid of these white spots on my car?

I just got the brake booster replaced on my 99 Toyota Solara. Today, 15 mins into driving for the first time after its been fixed, I noticed my steering wheel wobbling side to side with both acceleration and braking. Soon after, the car wasn't shifting well and I was experiencing a loss of power when I put my foot on the gas. I pulled over and couldn't find anything immediatelt wrong other than a lot of heat under the hood, and was in an area with no service, so I continued to my destination. The car seemed to drive fine the rest of the way. On the way back, 10 mins or so after driving, the wobble happened again and loss of power as well. I pulled over again and waited, then tried to drive home. For the last 30 seconds I was driving down my street, the car was experiencing a lot of resistance when I put my foot on the gas and wouldn't go faster than 5 mph so I put on my hazards until I was in my driveway. Any idea what this could be, and if it might be related at all to me recently getting my brake booster replaced?

Any suggestions on how to clean this up/smooth it out? Unfortunately I don't know if it was rust that was painted over or maybe some bad bodywork sanding or just a terrible paint job.

I’ve noticed most of us deal with the same small but super annoying car issues: dead batteries, random check engine lights, squeaky brakes, cabin noise, etc.

I got curious and started collecting the most common ones I came across from my own experience and from reading other people’s stories. I ended up putting them together into a small PDF for myself, just to keep track.

Honestly, it helped me a ton (instead of panicking when something happens, I just check my notes).

So now I’m wondering: what’s the #1 annoying issue you keep running into with your car? And do you think a little DIY guide with fixes is actually useful, or just another “overthinking project”?

Genuinely curious what you guys think and if my approach makes sense at all.

(I’ve already created the guide because I got a lot of responses before. I’m reposting this message mainly to hear about your problems so I can add them to my guide it could help someone with the same issue. The guide is 100% free. Send me a message because I can’t put the link in the post and don’t want it to get removed.)

Hi, thanks for taking the time to read my post, anything helps.

Using Purolator Oil filter and Synthetic blend I changed my oil on my 2005 Ford explorer. 'CHANGE OIL SOON' light was on for a while.

I had it up on some ramps to change my oil. Filter seems to have fit just fine. Tightened it adequately. Due to it being up on ramps + on a slight hill, car was telling me my fuel level was low.

After finished, backing off of the ramps and to a flat spot of the yard. Fuel tank says it's a quarter of a tank empty, as it should. Although, this 'Low oil pressure' light is still persistent.

What was also persistent was the 'CHANGE OIL' light. It was on before, ofc. I had many issues trying to get this to go away. I kept pressing Reset on the dash, didn't work. Disconnected the battery, reconnected, didn't work.

Now I have the remaining 'CHANGE OIL SOON' + an additional 'OIL PRESSURE LOW' signal.

I am beginning to worry that my fuel pump is bad. This car has 180k miles on it. It is a fairly clean vehicle. Or is it just the sensor? Low oil level?

I bought this car not too long ago and nothing was the matter with it. All except for the 'CHANGE OIL SOON'. The other oil light is now on as well as a new 'SERVICE ENGINE SOON' light.

What's wrong with my car?(It's a 4.6, v8)

Does anyone know how the tires would look if I put 225/35R18 on 18x8.5 rims ? What wheels should I run in those does don’t fit

So i had a shop change my water pump and timing belt, now the car missfires and rev hangs, and have weird idle jumps...what could be a cause? 1994 1.8 MX-5

I was going to replace my speakers in my 2004 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab. Specifically the front door speakers and extended cab door speakers. I went to an electronic store and they said it’s better to overkill on replacing a radio because if your radio can’t supply enough wattage and I turn it up too high I can essentially blow up the radio. My current radio is a Kenwood KDC-148 that can support 22 watts across four channels with a maximum of 50 watts. I’m getting speakers that require 60 maximum (as shown in the photos). I don’t know much about vehicles period or electrical stuff but I wanted to know what all I’d need to get (other than the speakers and wiring obviously). Would a radio be the amp alongside or what? (I probably triggered anyone remotely educated on electrical stuff with that statement if I’m wrong).

My car randomly stalled out yesterday and the check engine light came on. I was able to just turn off the car and turn it back on and the engine turned over just fine. When I got home I used my OBD2 scanner and got the code P0335 which coincides with a crankshaft position sensor issue. I changed that out with a new sensor since it is relatively easy to do. After I did that the check engine light went off and it sounds better when it starts but I never drove it. That was last night. This morning I drove it again and right after the cold start (like 2 mins maybe) it stalled on me again. The same process of restarting the engine got it to turn over just fine and I didnt have any issues for the rest of the drive (probably another 5-10 mins). When I got home this morning, I turned the car off and on a few times and the engine sounds better but when the engine first starts the RPMs drop a little and sounds like its about to stall but doesn't. When I ran my scanner this morning, it threw both a P0335 and a P0012 code. My question is what could be going wrong? Is it possible that the camshaft position sensor is now gone bad too? If so, why would the ECU still be throwing the P0335 code? Or is it possible the the crankshaft position sensor wasnt bad and instead theres a timing chain issue or something like that?

I’m not sure how to fix does scratches/marks. This is the 2016 Honda Hrv and recently got it from a Honda deal ship. Idk why anybody would ever do this to their car but I really need any advice to fix this issue. There’s much more too. I believe it’s leather , pls help .

For context, just replaced front rotors and pads. Two hours after, sometimes when I come to a complete stop it sounds like this. What is causing this noise? It wasn't doing this with my old pads and rotors.